Today, the Piglet cookbook tournament released Chef Wylie Dufresne's judgment of Asian Tofu versus Japanese Farm Food. A very accomplished chef known for his work in molecular gastronomy, Dufresne is a thoughtful person. At the outset he wrote, "I wondered if it was not imbalanced to compare the two."
Nancy Hachisu's book, which I cooked from earlier, is a unique survey of a cuisine whereas tofu is a single-subject book that spans the Pacific Ocean. One is relatively broad and the other hyper-specific. We're talking oranges vs. kumquats.
Dufresne cooked a couple of recipes from each of our works and deemed it a stalemate. At the end of the day, it boiled down to pictures and presentation. Japanese Farm Food prevailed over Asian Tofu.
Am I sore? Not really. Dissappointed? Yes, but frankly, not by much. Dufresne's review, just like all the others, was subjective. (Ain't that most of life?) The face-offs are surprising and unusual, tough calls to make for each judge. It was nice to see three Asian cookbooks in the tournament this year.
The Piglet is a fun and great for focused discussion on cookbooks and home cooking. Now if Asian Tofu was reviewed against another tofu book, that would be a different situation . . .
Seriously, the bottom line is this: There are tons of cookbooks published each year and to get into the ring with 16 of the best -- that's winning already.
Do you agree or disagree with Dufresne's call? Read his review and vote!
Related posts:
- My thoughts on when Asian Tofu bested Jerusalem (the NY Yankees of cookbooks)
- Fried Ginger Chicken (Karaage) from Japanese Farm Food
Martin Nieznanski says
this round of the contest killed me... both "Asian Tofu" and "Japanese Farm Food" are some of my favorite cookbooks from last year. i'm so glad that i wasn't in the position where i had to pick only one of them!
Cathy says
"Japanese Farm Food" was on my Christimas list but I didn't get it so I cannot comment more than to say I didn't like today's piglet review. It didn't do justice to "Asian Tofu" and it didn't make me want to go out and buy "Japanese Farm Food" so I guess it didn't do justice to that either. I wish one of the reviewers had followed the tofu tutorial, made their own pressed tofu or yuba skins, something to make me believe they really understood the book. For me "Asian Tofu" is about starting with dry soybeans and making all those wonderful goodies, knowing they couldnt possibly be any fresher or better unless I lived next door to a tofu maker.
By the way, should I buy "Japanese Farm Food?"
Andrea Nguyen says
Me too, Martin!
Andrea Nguyen says
I agree, Cathy. I was surprised that neither chefs that reviewed Asian Tofu made tofu from scratch. Japanese Farm Food has a recipe for tofu from scratch. Had I been Dufresne, I would have done a comparison on the recipes and text that went with them so as to see the value of tofu, it's beauty and freshness. Both Nancy and my books aim to shed light on Asian cuisines.
Many chefs that I've spoken to are jazzed about going from soybeans to bean curds. But seemed like Canora and Dufresne aren't interested -- yet!
Should you get "Japanese Farm Food"? It depends on your interest in Japanese cooking. What I liked about the book was its unfussy approach. On the other hand, some of the flavors were a little too rustic for me, mostly in part because ingredients in Japan are very exacting.
In the U.S., we're cooking with what we can get at Mitsuwa, Nijiya and Ranch 99. When I write recipes, I keep that in mind. Maybe check the book out from the library?
Mike Yetter says
I don't know the Japanese Farm Food cookbook. I do know Asian Tofu. I don't like to make uneducated choices but by the title alone you would have my vote, and I wasn't much of a tofu fan prior to buying your book. Congrats on being in the top sixteen. I always love your positive attitude and outlook. Can't wait for the next book.
Scotty Harris says
Tough when it's two authors you admire. I gotta say I find the concept kind of silly. As I once wrote about restaurant reviews: Sometimes it's not "apples and oranges", it's "apples and carburetors". Ah well, you are still a winner in my book.
Maggie says
Should a cookbook seduce us with beautiful photography, the author's personal narrative, technical authenticity or originality? I usually look for a combination of all of these, and it helps if there is an exploration of the cultural context to the recipes in question, a criteria which both books seem to satisfy. It all boils down to personal taste, and I think that Asian Tofu lost out because tofu is simply more of a hard sell! Personally, I would happily cook from BOTH books.
Diane says
This round really shocked me. I expected Dufresne to really get into and dig the mechanics of making tofu (given his background in MG), and give it the win on the sheer chemistry-lab coolness of that alone. Instead he seemed to weigh in mostly on the fantasy/story that was being told with the book. Nothing wrong with that, as reviews are always personal, but that kind of touchy-feely approach surprised me more coming from him.
I will be purchasing "Japanese Farm Food" for sure, as it sounds quite interesting. It may not have the pride of place in my house that "Asian Tofu" does (which is almost always on the counter being used and splattered with stuff), but it will at least make for some great bedside reading and fun experiments.
Yun Ho says
Hi Andrea:
I think the whole idea of Piglet Cookbook face-off is very hilaroius especially when it comes to Asian foods. Bunch of Gweilos trying to judge Asian foods...They should be awarded with comedy of the year award!!
terri says
I'm sorry you didn't win--but hopefully you and your work have been exposed to a wider audience through this process. Congrats on making it this far!
Abbe@This is How I Cook says
You are right-you are all winners. Who wouldn't want to have a cookbook in the top 16? Way to go!
Andrea Nguyen says
Thanks, Mike. How nice to know that you're now a tofu fan. 😀
Andrea Nguyen says
I do love your take on things, Scotty! Beam me up.
Andrea Nguyen says
I do too, Maggie! Like Scotty remarked, the Piglet is kinda silly but it gets people thinking and talking about cookbooks and cooking. That's a good thing in my book!
Andrea Nguyen says
I totally agree with you, Diane. Dufresne took an unexpected tactic on reviewing the two books. He's hard core on the molecular gastronomy. Maybe he's trying to be more like the average bear. That said, he chose his words wisely.
Andrea Nguyen says
You are too funny, Yun Ho. I found it telling that some of the reviewers whined about tracking down dried shrimp, chickpea flour and sumac. I bet they'd have no problem hunting down a special pasta or olive oil. It's all about what we're familiar with and our personal comfort zone.
Andrea Nguyen says
Terri -- My thoughts exactly. There's nothing wrong with getting more people to know you.
Andrea Nguyen says
Thanks, Abbe!
EasyKoreanFood says
Hello! I recently just started a youtube Korean food channel, EasyKoreanFood, where you can learn how to make fast & easy Korean food! It would mean the world to me if you could check it out because I'm just starting out! Thanks!
Kate Leahy says
Apples and kumquats, indeed! I wish Dufresne had made your tofu, too. A revelation, that recipe, and worth every letter. I have a hunch your next book will get even farther in the Piglet faceoff.
Maggie says
If, by 'Gweilo" (an outdated, xenophobic term), you mean Westerners, I suppose they ARE the target readership of these cookbooks. Sorry, but I don't see the hilarity.