Rachel Ray may do her phunky pho thing but let's look at some bonafide, real Asian food. I’m in Asia for several weeks doing research for a new book.
Last week I was in Taipei and was blown away by all the snacks available day and night. Whether you are strolling on the arcaded streets in Taipei or at a night market, there’s bound to be something delicious to lure you to spend 30 or 40 NTD ($1 to $1.30).
Taiwan is a unique blend of Chinese, Japanese and Southeast Asian cuisines. In general, it's light tasting, friendly food. A few highlights include:
Lots of food on sticks. Below is Sara, a Grand Hyatt chef de cuisine, enjoying a sticky rice mixed with pork blood and rolled in ground peanuts. Sounds weird but it wasn’t mineral tasting at all. Like a popsicle but warm.
There were dumplings everywhere, from bao to freshly steamed xiao long bao and regular steamed dumplings (jiaozi).
One unusual thing were these juicy meat filled buns baked in a tandoor-like oven. The best ones had a flaky, chewy crust and fragrant beef filling. It’s hearty, rustic fare. Head to Rao He market, like my friend Curis W. did to lead me to Taipei’s tastiest buns.
Then there’s the ubiquitous stinky tofu, which sounds worse than it tastes. Garnished with pickled vegetables, it’s rather nice.
Tips for trying stinky tofu (chou dofu): Get the deep friend stinky tofu as it’s the most accessible. Freshly fried stinky tofu has the best texture. Pick the least stinky stall, not one where you can smell it from across the street, which I did in from the vendor in the second photo below.
I went to Ningxia, Rao He, Shilin, Shida, an international night market and a few others that I can’t remember. You won’t lose if you wander around and point to eat. It doesn’t cost much to try.
Just remember that trash cans are hard to find in Taipei. Eat up or carry a small trash bag with you. Taipei is a clean city and they want to discourage litering (like in Japan) so there are few public trash cans.
Taiwainese people are super friendly and I made some great new friends. Many thanks to Katy B. for hooking me up with Holly H., Christine T., Anita C., Sara L., Curis W. and Peko.
Jai says
I'm a big fan of exotic tastes, I'd love to try stinky tofu... Can you get it in the U.S.? Sounds like you're in Heaven, Andrea! Ciao.
Dennis says
stinky tofu also know as doofu ru is usually available in Asian supermarkets in small glass jars...there are red and white versions. I use a 2 1" cubes in my mapo dofu...it does not smell in the dish but IMHO it makes for a "bigger"/"fuller" taste.
Mike says
Were those baked pork buns heavily laced with white pepper? If so, I know what they are.
Thuy says
OMG... those little white baos look soooooo good. I am drooling while looking at those pics of yours. Is Taiwan easy to travel? I want to go but afraid I would feel lost there in a sea of swiggly lines.
celina says
I am suprised to see this posting about my hometown!
To Jai
For starter, I would recommend you to try fried "stinky tofu" since the taste isn't so strong.
However, I have not found a good place for the fried ones in the States. In Denver, I found "stewed stinky tofu" in plastic shrinked package in H-Mart. The smell is really pungent and crazy- a really challenge for foreigners.
To Andrea
Have you tried the Viet food in Taiwan? I am curious what you may think about them. We have many vietnamese immigrants in Taiwan and many of them run small vietnamese eateries.
twitter.com/aqnguyen says
@Celina: Thanks for the tip for getting stinky tofu in the U.S. I saw banh mi and pho several times in TP but didn't have room to taste them!
twitter.com/aqnguyen says
@Dennis: Stinky tofu is not the same as doufu ru, which is creamy and fermented. Stinky tofu is chou doufu and it's not quite fermented.
Leslie says
The least stinky tofu is the least fermented/brined tofu, and therefore has the least unique flavor! I always go for the stand I can smell from farthest away. One taste will convert the stench into a heavenly aroma in your mind 😀
maggie b says
@celina, where can we find Vietnamese food in Taipei? I tried to find last summer but failed.
Andrea, I loved seeing your post. I was thrilled when I visited last year and friends took me around to try their local favorites. The xiao long bao was TO DIE FOR. The other treat was "Taipei style dim sum" and I couldn't tell you where it was but we had these incredible dumplings, which you eat wrapped in a mochi-like cake, then wrap around that a crispy wonton like shell, incredible!
the night market food was incredible. and don't even get me started about Taiwan beer.
We did find an excellent udon type noodle, beef noodle. Someone pointed us there, a small place in an alleyway. Delicious!
Also the ingenious cheap napkins came from rolls of toilet paper nailed to the wall in strategic places for diners at the tables. very clever use of space.
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Workers Compensation says
those buns looks so simple and hot..can't wait to bite them
Katy says
@maggie b - if you are reading this. There is a well-recommended Vietnamese restaurant in Taipei. I've never been there myself - but 'expats' love it!
http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/feat/archives/2004/09/10/2003202395
It takes a while to download because of the image, but it gives you the direction and location in the article.
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Juria says
Stinky tofu ROCKS! I lived in Taichung & got used to the smell and flavor to the point it became an addiction! Nice post - brings back memories 🙂
I loved Taiwan's street food markets...
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