We all know that fresh is best when shopping at Asian markets and patronizing Asian delis and restaurants. We poke, paw and sniff the wares to ensure that they've been recently made. If they're warm and soft, we know they're good. But health departments suspect that such practices aren't hygienic.
Last year, in California, the health and safety of leaving banh chung sticky rice cakes and banh trung thu moon cakes and banh tet (special sweets for the Mid-Autumn festival) out at room temp because the focal point of a legislative debate. The governor passed a law allowing such heritage foods to slide by.
RST, an avid Chowhounder, just alerted me to the fact that one of his favorite Vietnamese restaurants in Chicago was just raided by the health department. Here's RST's blow-by-blow account:
I saw the most upsetting thing today! Went to Dong Ky for a late
lunch-this is the restaurant closest to my house and my go-to for a
quick meal. Food usually comes out freakily fast; today, I was
engrossed in a book and didn't realize that almost 20 min had passed
since I gave my order. Looking up, I saw that several tables were also
patiently waiting. Waiters and the owners were calm but obviously
stressed out over something. Soon a lady in hairnet and a white lab
coat and a ream of papers walked out and I realized that the place was
being inspected. The inspector was upset about something and was
scolding one of the ladies who own the place. Shortly afterwards, the
inspector's supervisor (or that's what I assume he is) walked in to
mediate the problem. Apparently the inspector had confiscated all the
rice cakes, all the buns, sweets etc sitting on the counter on account
of their being sitting at room temp (!!!) and while she was inside
inspecting the kitchen, the staff had quietly packed them off in
plastic bags to be hidden in a neighboring store and this infuriated
the inspector. Those bags were promptly brought back as both sides
quietly tried to resolve the problem. Still, all those rice cakes,
sweetmeats etc had to be destroyed, thrown into garbage bags right
there and then to the horror of all the Vietnamese in the house. These
are cakes and buns that have millennially been served at room temp and
sold just like this in markets all over Vietnam. They are also
displayed the same way in virtually all of the other shops all
throughout Argyle Street!!!! I don't know what perverted strain of
zealousness (or cluelessness) made this inspector insist on poking her
thermometer into every bun and insisting that they should either be
refrigerated or kept in a warmer!!! Among the goodies thrown out
(before my eyes) were banana cakes, leavened rice cakes, stuff that
could have sat out for days without harm. Meatball stuffed buns were
also all thrown out-if they do this here-they would also have to throw
out all of Chiu Quon's buns for staying out (granted, inside bakery
cases) at room temp. Also thrown out were com ruou, fermented rice
balls sitting in a pool of the sweet wine exuded in its making-how
could the woman have known that the thing is fermented already and have
no chance of going bad under normal circumstances.
Curiously
for all the chowhounding I do (i.e. the time I spend in restaurants),
this is actually the first time I have actually seen an inspector in
action. If such a thing could happen here, I wonder how many times
over this misdirected zealousness has been applied throughout the city
at eateries of widely diff ethnicities!!! It is this kind of blindered
over-regulation (that we hear about, anecdotally, here and there, now
and again, from small restaurateurs) that leads to the impoverishing of
our food horizon!
- Asemblyman Van Tran: Press release on AB 2214
- Official info from the governor's office: AB 2214 Fact Sheet
Hope this information helps those of you in the Chicago/Illinois area. Good luck!
RST says
It is not entirely clear from those links just exactly what the compromises/agreements are; the law certainly wasn't worded to give Vietnamese food purveyors carte blanche to display and sell this food as it been sold and displayed traditionally for hundreds and hundreds of years, i.e. at room temperature. It seems as if the Health Department still has to come up with solutions that would meet their
"scientific" standards. What these will eventually turn out to be (use of chemical additives? p
Andrea Nguyen says
For sure, RST. The legislation in CA is vague. It's been a year and I've not heard any commotion from either side.
Simon Bao says
I remember reading lots about this controversy when it erupted in California last year. To be completely honest, it really isn't satisfactory or adequate for anyone to assert that this is simply the traditional way Viet foods have always been sold and displayed, and therefore it *must* be safe, right? And *must* be permitted. Well, no it isn't necessarily safe, and no old country customs should get any automatic waivers.
And while I got nothing but love and kisses for the motherland, Vietname
Andrea Nguyen says
Well, this is a problem when you're trying to sell old-school food in a new-school situation. In Vietnam, most people buy snacks like banh bao steamed buns from a vendor who specializes in it. Even at a deli-style operation like Nhu Lan in Saigon, they're piled high and very fresh and hot, right atop the steamer. There's no sitting around under plastic wrap waiting for bacteria to form.
The problem is that people now want convenience and a full array of goodies when they go to these American sho
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