We're heading into Vietnam's tourist high season. Visitors -- whether overseas Vietnamese or not -- flock to Vietnam when the weather is cooler and drier. Of course this all depends on where you are. It's just less hot and humid in and around Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), rather damp, cool and dreary in the Hue area, and downright wet and cold to the bone in Hanoi and its environs. As a long, skinny country, Vietnam's regional climates are as varied as its regional foods. If you're going soon, pack layers should you be traveling the entire country.
A trip to Vietnam is nothing without eating lots of Vietnamese food. Jason emailed last week about his upcoming trip and sent this query:
I'll be traveling to Vietnam this December for 2 weeks, and have a question.
I keep hearing about not eating uncooked vegetables, herbs, fruits etc. But I really don't see how that is possible and still enjoy the cuisine. Basically everything has some sort of uncooked herb or vegetable, which is what makes the cuisine so good. With the recent cholera outbreak this seems to be even more of a concern.
Given that I'm going in great part for the food alone, do you have any advice?
Ohhhh yeah. On my first trip back in early 2003, I resisted eating raw lettuces and herbs because I feared getting sick. A doctor in my hometown planted the seed by telling me about his 6-month bout with dysentery after working in Mexico. My parents kept asking if my husband and I didn't want to go elsewhere -- Europe, Mexico (!?) -- anywhere aside from Vietnam where we could fall ill and have to rely on the local medical system. When my dad realized that we were intent on going back to the Motherland, he handed me a care package that included Cipro, a kind of antibiotic that will kill anything.
So when in Vietnam, we'd stare down at a gorgeous plate of herbs that'd just been picked from a large bowl of water and had to force ourselves to pass on them. We'd eat our banh khoai crunchy rice crepes in Hue without herbs. In Hanoi, the pho joints we patronized served no garnishes (a traditional northern Vietnamese approach) and we ate the classic noodle soup just as other locals did -- sans any additions and savored the heady broth, fresh noodles and savory beef. On a daily basis, we loaded up on stir-fried water spinach with garlic (rau muong xao toi) to get our load of veggies. We felt like wimps and occasionally got into fights over whether or not we should risk our lives for raw vegetables. The doctor and my parents' admonitions loomed over us at every meal.
When we got back to the U.S. we felt like we'd miss out on a certain
something by not eating the accompaniments. We NEVER fell ill during
the trip. I checked in with others who'd gone back and they sheepishly
admitted not eating the raw stuff too.
I've traveled in China and other parts of Southeast Asia and basically ate mostly cooked foods. That's okay in those countries because there's little raw vegetables and herbs in their cuisines. The only time I got sick was in Hong Kong when I stupidly ate a salad at a Pizza Hut. Vietnam, however, is different, and what distinguishes Vietnamese food is the abundance of raw vegetables. In fact, herbs are called fragrant vegetable -- rau thom. Not partaking in the raw vegetables and herbs is indeed missing a huge point in Vietnamese cuisine, just as Jason suggests.
Before our last trip back in January 2007, we got thinking and decided to eat it all. Here are our strategies for dealing with food safety in Vietnam:
1) Start and stay healthy. We made sure we were in shape to travel by keeping our immune system up. We got lots of rest before departing and tried not to get stressed out about packing, getting visas, etc. As with any flight, we took Airborne at take off. To get sleep in flight, we took a natural product called No Jet Lag and wore earplugs; we slept with those ugly blow-up neck pillows to ensure we don't wake up in pain. (After reading a tip in GQ magazine, my husband even talked me into wearing a mask but it was too hard to sleep with that on!)
On a daily basis while in Vietnam, I took a few drops of grapefruit seed extract diluted in water. It's bitter but it works for boosting your immune system due to its anti-practically-anything properties. What I use is called Citricidal and it has been and continues to be great stuff for me. It's available at healthfood stores and natural pharmacies. (It's also good for hangovers.)
2) Locals worry about hygiene too. It's always been this way in Vietnam. The billboards, food labels and vendors all worry about keeping things clean and healthy. An ill customer -- not to mention a foreign visitor -- can ruin your business. Wherever we ate, we watched the locals eat. If they set their cilantro sprig of garnish aside and didn't touch the lettuce leaves, we did too. If they dove into everything, we went whole hog.
3) Eat freshly prepared food. Vietnamese food and cooking is about freshness, not just for culinary purposes but for hygiene reasons too. So we made sure to see our being made in front of us. When that wasn't possible, we checked out the staff and joint to make sure things had a good vibe. Whenever possible, we made eye contact and smiled so that people knew we cared.
4) Trust the cook. An honest cook is more likely to not hurt you
with bad food. Look her/him in the eye (and or the service staff) before
you sit down.
5) Enjoy ice judiciously. Beer on ice is one of my favorite beverages in Vietnam but I ordered my beer with ice in places that look like they got ice from filtered water. That meant that if I were in a village or small town on the square in a little plastic chair, I drank my beer warm from the bottle. My husband came up with a clever strategy of drinking fast. This didn't apply to beer, but other refreshing drinks like delicious fresh sugarcane juice, which had to have ice. We sucked ours up through straws relatively fast to avoid the potentially unfiltered water from the melted ice.
6) Nature's protectors. All that lime, chile, vinegar, garlic, ginger, turmeric and galangal -- they're natural antiseptics. Know that all that comes together to kill potentially harmful bugs and bacteria. Along with the herbs, you've got a powerful phytochemical mix in your food.
7) Peel your own. Unless we were at the hotel's morning breakfast buffet spread where the fruit was already peeled, we peeled our own fruit. Vietnamese people, like many Asian people, peel their fruit. We eat lots of fruit so the nutrients lost in discarding the peel is negligible. My mother won't eat strawberries because it's fruit she can't peel!
8) Take it easy. You may get a little tummy thing that's a matter of your body adjusting. Keep hydrated with bottled water.
The cholera situation right now will make people in Vietnam extra alert so they'll be watching out for their health as well as yours.
Got any tips of your own? Let us know.
Life Begins at 30 says
Andrea Nguyen: Safe Eating While in Vietnam
Andrea Nguyen has published a great post about safe eating while in Vietnam. I followed the same sort of safe eating philosophy while I was there for three weeks this year, and was sick only for a couple of hours
Mike says
Well, Andrea is much more thorough than I. Let me just that in nearly 3 years of living Vietnam on and off between 2001 and 2006, I got sick twice. Once, I was at an American restaurant in Hanoi. Once, I was at a wonderful French restaurant in Saigon. Sure I had a loose stomach at times here and there but nothing too bad. I ate everything. Ice everyday. Fresh herbs. I ate streetfood and from small food stalls nearly everyday, for most meals.
I'm not trying to sound tough. Simply, take Andrea's
Robyn says
Eat yogurt everyday. Little bottles of slightly sweet plain yogurt are easily found (in Saigon at least) and are delicious. All those good bacteria in your stomach can't hurt.
Eat at places that are crowded. As you said, the locals are concerned about hygiene too. If a place is packed (even if just a street stall) it's probably been tried and tested.
And carry cipro. If you develop a 'problem' that goes on for more than 24 hours it's very likely bacterial. Cipro works very well, and very quickly
Bri says
Andrea, what a wonderfully informative and personal post! I can't remember how I got to your site, but I'm glad I did. I have wanted to visit Viet Nam, but haven't yet. Once every couple years or so, I do find myself in remote areas of Mexico. I used to get sick every time, but since I started grapefruit seed extract, I've been to Mexico 3 or 4 times and haven't gotten sick. That stuff is awesome! I usually bring empty vegi-capsules and fill one with 10-15 drops of the GSE and take that b
Andrea Nguyen says
Mike, that's a good tip on going at a busy time. So many of these thing seem like no brainers but when you're traveling and full of health-related trepidations, it's hard to make sound decisions.
Robyn, I love that yogurt and haven't had it in years -- since I was in Yunnan province in the early 90s and we'd chase down the bicycle vendor each morning! You're right, persistently loose bowels need attention. Creamy rice soup (jook/congee/chao) works wonders for recovering tummy problems.
Bri, gra
-tvu says
I just got back from Saigon on a two weeks trip! Didn't get sick once! My trick is to take Imodium D, during the first few days. I do this for all my international trips This is to let my stomach get use to all the local "bugs". After a few days, my system will get use to the local foods.
The banh pho in Vietnam is way better then banh pho used in Pho restaurants in Orange county. It was softer. I re-fell in love with Pho. Also, the best banh bao I ever tasted.
Binh says
That's a very informative post you have. I recall my grandparents saying that most if not all the herbs in Vietnamese cuisine have medicinal qualities. I wonder if that's the way the local find the healthy balance in the middle of questionable hygiene condition. That being said, when I was young in Saigon, my parents didn't let me drink the sugarcane juice. The sugarcane juice is fine -- it's the swarms of flies that always gather around the piles of discarded sugarcane stalks.
Andrea Nguyen says
Whether or not we have Asian DNA, we're all of Asian extraction on this blog. That said, it's apropos that we discuss digestive issues.
TVu -- your strategy is pretty innovative. Tighten up before you may loosen up. Glad to know that you rediscovered the pleasures of Vietnamese food.
Binh -- your grandparents were probably right. I have a book that lists various kinds of herbs and vegetables in the Viet repertoire, and there are folk remedies associated with nearly every single one of them. Sorr
Nate says
On my trips to China I took along Pepto Bismol tablets which I ate before every meal to act as sort of a buffer for whatever strange food my come my way.
steamykitchen says
Of all thing...salad at a Pizza Hut!!
When we went to China, we brought along my brother who is a doctor! Thats the best way to travel.
Hey, maybe I can lease out my cute, single, doctor brother to international travellers!!!!
😉
jaden
Andrea Nguyen says
Whenever I have stomach problems, I have no one but myself to blame...
Jenn says
It may be an odd coincidence, but I was sick only once in Vietnam last December and made some changes in how I was eating and never had another days problem after.
The first few days there I was EXTRA picky about where and what I ate and I got sick...2 days of being ill, yuck. After that I made sure I was getting yogurt with breakfast every day and drank some sort of alcohol with every dinner and a coke with lunches. I did well for a week and started getting a bit broader in what I was eating.
Diana says
I just moved to hanoi and have been here for a week. I am amazed that I have not had any problems with the food at all! It has been exciting to try different dishes and still feel great. I had fresh spring rolls on our second and my husband had his friend. I felt fine. I have been eating at restaurants that look clean, and everything has been great.
Andrea Nguyen says
Diana, thanks for your feedback. If you come across favorite eateries, do let me know!
Noclegi Zakopane says
I like Vietnam food - it is so different then europian. Thanks You for this introduction by kitchen.
Ustka says
Diana - dont you worry about gastric problems? How you resolve this problem?Any pils or diet?
Wędkarstwo Morskie says
Great post Noclegi Zakopane. I was also had this gastric problem on vacatin in India last year. Two weeks i was in bad in hotel!!!
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Ustka Wczasy Noclegi says
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Greate site with many useful tips. I try to use them in my kitchen , but probably I will a trable with ingrediens.So Thanks
Ian says
I have been to Vietnam on several occasions actually and have always found the people to be kind, genuine and affectionate. The food is absolutely fantastic as you have noted Andrea, and the culture continues to amaze me everytime I go back. Great tips and hints for any travel to Vietnam. Well done.
jessica, nyc says
I just came back from a 2 week trip through the south and central part of Vietnam. The first day I was a bit careful. But after downing a warm beer, I decided to risk it with the ice. Then while driving through a small town our guide decided to treat us to hot vit lon (fetal duck egg) with fresh herbs, chili salt and lemon. This was in the middle of nowhere and it seemed a little bit less then hygienic, but we were guests and our guide was very happy to be sharing this with us. So we dove in, d
Andrea Nguyen says
Jessica, Thanks for sharing your story. That is quite something -- eating hot vit lot and drinking ice tea. The herbs may have helped thing a bit too.
jessica, nyc says
It was a fantastic trip. I wish it were easier to get back to explore more of the country and food. We were only there 2 short weeks. I posted some of the food we ate on my flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/38542935@N00/sets/72157610529307058/
I am already missing the abundance of fresh produce and amazing street food.
Tori says
Been to Vietnam about 5 times now, for about 3 weeks each time, and haven't been sick yet. I don't know why not, since I drink ice (not at bia hoi, but at better-looking places), eat fresh herbs/lettuce. But I generally avoid street food (except for vendors my husband's known for years), so maybe that helps? We generally stick to "busy" places, too. That definitely seems to help, and nets you the tastiest food, to boot!
I should amend the above: I got sick ONCE. I ate chao on a plane ride fr
Andrea Nguyen says
Tori -- LOL -- you got sick from eating at a 'safe' place. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Phentermine 37.5 says
Tips straight out of personal travel diaries are always welcome.
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Christine W. says
I got sick the first day I was in Vietnam; I ordered fried calamari that was served with lettuce tomato and a sweet chili dipping sauce. I was careful enough to not eat the veggies, but I soon forgot about that and ate a tomato wedge. Within an hour diarrhea struck and I was sick for the whole 2 weeks I was in Vietnam. Luckily I had a week's supply of Levaquin (antibiotic) which worked wonders, but was soon sick again when that ran out. Immodium didn't help at all. Just be careful when it c
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Alberto Martin says
I ate streetfood and from little meals booths nearly daily, for most foods. I'm not trying to audio challenging. Basically, take Andrea's guidance and adhere to the residents.