I learned to make pho from eating it, talking to good cooks and reading lots of cookbooks. Over the years, it's clear that there's no definitive way to do it. Each cook expresses his or her personal flair in a bowl of pho beef noodle soup. Along with Basic Pho Secrets and Techniques, I've added some more for your consideration:
Toast the spices
Though I don't think this makes a huge difference because the broth cooks for so long, some cooks toast the spices before adding them to the broth. For this approach, use a skillet set over a medium-low flame. Once the star anise, cloves and cinnamon are fragrant, remove them from the heat. Lightly crush the spices using the flat side of a knife or mortar and pestle. Encase them in cheesecloth or a mesh spice/herb ball and add to the broth.
Vary the spices
Some Viet cooks omit the cloves, reduce the amount of star anise and instead, use thao qua (black/false cardamom). Available at Asian markets, the dried brown pod (pictured above on the right) resembles a ridged whole nutmeg. Thao qua has a strong smoky, camphor aroma. In the recipe provided here, use 1 star anise and 1 thao qua; keep the cinnamon but omit the cloves. Use the flat side of a knife to gently whack the pod, breaking open its skin to expose the pyramid shaped seeds. Place in cheesecloth or a spice/herb ball and add it to the broth. Once you can smell its fragrance, remove the thao qua from the pot. Otherwise, it will over power the other elements. More on pho spices here.
Make broth with oxtail
Some Viet cooks swear that using oxtail instead of beef leg bones yields a superior broth. Oxtail is rather pricey so I'm not sure if the bit of extra flavor and gelatinous texture is worth the expense. If you'd like, use all oxtail or substitute some of the leg bones with an oxtail.
Add daikon
Omit the sugar and add daikon to sweeten the broth. Peel ¾ to 1 pound of daikon and cut into 4-inch sections. Add it to the broth along with the onion, ginger and other ingredients.
Garnish with poached scallion
What to do with the leftover white parts of the scallion? Drop them in the broth for hanh tran (poached onion), a homey pho garnish that people will fight for.
Embellish with other beefy elements
If you want to replicate the splendorous options available at pho shops, head to the butcher counter at a Viet or Chinese market. There you'll find white cords of gan (beef shin tendon) and thin pieces of nam (outside flank, not to be confused with flank steak). While the tendon requires no prepping prior to cooking, the nam should be rolled and tied with string for easy handling; slice the nam with the grain for assembly. Simmer these ingredients (as you would for any cooked meat) in the broth for two hours, or until chewy-tender.
Airy book tripe (sach) is already cooked when you buy it. Before using, wash and gently squeeze it dry. Slice it thinly to make fringe-like pieces to be added to the bowl during assembly. For the beef meatballs (bo vien), slice each one in half and drop into the broth to heat through. When you're ready to serve, ladle them out with the broth to top each bowl. (Beef meatballs are sold pre-cooked in cryovac packages in the refrigerated sections of Chinese and Viet markets.)
manju says
Andrea, thank you for sharing all these tips for making pho at home. I've always wanted to try it, and with your guidance, I think I just might be able to do it. Many thanks!
sam says
Hi Andrea,
Thank you so much for teaching me about cooking pho, I have made it a couple times from your recipe and it was very very tasty. If you don't mind, I had a quick question for you if you have time. . .
When I made pho I used cinnamon from an American grocery store and my friend (who is Vietnamese) said the cinnamon flavor was different from what she was used to at home. I noticed while I was using wikipedia that there is a special "saigon cinnamon" that they say is used in pho (they say
Andrea Nguyen says
Hi Sam,
Yes, there is a difference between cinnamon sold in America which looks like curled up bark and Vietnamese cinnamon, which is actually cassia and looks like pieces of thick bark.
For pho, you can use regular cinnamon and be just fine. However, if you're at a Chinese or Vietnamese market, look for the cassia in the spice and flour aisle. It has a slightly sweeter flavor than regular American cinnamon.
Note that at many gourmet shops and even Costco -- the ground cinnamon that's sold is of
Anonymous says
actually cassia is the type sold at most american grocery stores - cinnamon is a different plant, though related.
Andrea Nguyen says
I stand corrected! Thanks for pointing that out, anonymous. Here's a nice page that discusses all the various kinds:
http://www.vanillareview.com/cinnamon-information/
Jacqueline says
Hi there, I just wanted to say that I've used the Viet World Kitchen basic recipe pho recipe a number of times, and over time have incorporated some of your advanced tips when making a batch. To me, even the basic recipe has produced better bowls of Pho than I've ever managed to get at a restaurant. Even my hubby, who has never really cared for it in restaurants, really likes the home made stuff, and other than the fact that the cooking time is a little on the long side, I find it really easy t
Andrea Nguyen says
Thanks, Jacqueline!
dpn says
Hi. As typical, I should have paid more attention when my mom was alive. she was the BEST cook ever! (yeah, i know. everyone says that about their mom but not kidding here). I know that some will use the pho seasoning packet but i would like to learn it from the basic as it was originally done. i remember having to skim off the foam when makign the broth when i was young and can remember some of the ingredients but i do not recall her putting in cinnamon? what region is this recipe from?
s says
It's quite interesting. I will look around for more such your post.
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Sayedahashime says
Hi Andrea,
I am in the process of looking at various recipes to try for making Pho for the first time. I have noticed some recipes also include coriander and fennel seeds, and also black peppercorns. What are your thoughts on this? Thank you!