It's astounding what kinds of ingredients are available for cooking Vietnamese food these days. I was just in Denver, Colorado, this past weekend for the annual International Association of Culinary Professionals conference. At the first chance that I got, I escaped to explore the Vietnamese markets, shops, and restaurants.
I'd heard that the Vietnamese community in Denver is small, and locals were a bit apologetic about it, but nevertheless, I took a cab ride to South Federal Street in an ethnically mixed part of town. There were Mexican taco, burrito, and torta stands, a handful of Chinese restaurants, but a surprising number of Vietnamese businesses, too. It was freezing this weekend, around 30 degrees F with 40 mile per hour winds. Walking along South Federal with my friends Nathan and Jeremy, my ears felt frozen stiff and hurt. We'd wrapped our heads in scarves and look like Babushkas.
I can't tell you how relieved we were to set foot inside the Little Saigon Market (Cho Saigon, in the Far East Center shopping center at the corner of South Federal and Alameda). Our ears were ringing and we felt startlingly disoriented for about 10 minutes after being tossed around in the wind. (We did notice that we were the only people foolish enough to be walking on Federal Street last Saturday!) Nevertheless, we began walking every aisle and scanning the inventory. For the Little Saigon Market's size, roughly twice that of a large 7-Eleven, it was one of the best stocked markets for Vietnamese, Chinese, and Southeast ingredients that I've seen in recent years.
The condiment, noodles and spices section covered Vietnamese, Indonesia, Thai, Filipino, and Chinese needs. Spices from Vietnam, such as cinnamon and ground star anise, were right there on the shelves. The herb selection wasn't at its perky best but could be revived. Rau ram, kinh gioi, tia to, ngo gai, and even la lot! (Check the Vietnamese herb primer if you’re not familiar with these herbs, or if you need a tip on keep herbs super fresh.) Warm soft tofu was scooped right out of a giant 30-gallong stockpot into plastic containers for takeaway purchases. The fish sauce, rice paper, and rice inventory was downright respectable. There was warm, just-made Vietnamese sausages (gio lua, cha, and nem) made locally, as well as some stuff trucked in from Westminster, California. I was delighted for Denverites, and my friend Nathan (a Chinese-Canadian) and I concluded that if we moved to Denver, we could cook good Asian food there.
Overall, there was a certain down-home quality about the markets, bakeries, banh mi shops and noodle joints that I visited this weekend. They were more akin to the old-fashioned family operations that we fear disappearing these days as Asian parents dissuade their kids from continuing the family business and pursuing careers as doctors, dentists, and pharmacists.
But perhaps my impression of the South Federal area merely reflects Denver itself. The Mile High City is a friendly, spacious city that represents the American West – a pioneering place full of far-ranging possibilities and potential.
If you're familiar with Denver and have tips, share them so that on my next trip to Denver, I'll have an even better time!
Barb says
I'd love to hear what you think of the H Mart in the Denver area (I believe it's actually Aurora). It is absolutely HUGE, has really fresh fish (according to my mom and sister, who get it all the time), some fresh-cooked foods (I had my own first taste of warm soft tofu there), as well as imported products.
http://www.hmart.com/
I don't get down there often enough, but I know the Asian community in Fort Collins even shops down there! I try to go every time I visit my family in Aurora. 😀
Andrea Nguyen says
Barb, I haven't been to the H Mart in Denver but I've been to H Mart outside of Chicago. The Korean community is in the suburb of Denver and it's no surprise that they'd build a humongous store. The one in Illinois was as big as the neighboring Home Depot. I was astounded. How lucky you are. Thanks for the tip on Fort Collins too!
Michelle says
I'm jealous! I've only ever seen la lot in the Vietnamese markets in San Jose! I want la lot here! 🙁 I currently live in the Delta region and our local Asian market (County Square) can only be counted on for mint and maybe perilla. Denverites are lucky ducks!
Andrea Nguyen says
Michelle, I bet you can grow la lot leaves in the Delta region. I can't grown them in the Monterey Bay where I live. Here's a Canadian vendor listed on this page:
How to Grow Vietnamese Herbs
http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2007/06/growing_vietnam.html
Lee Fielder says
H Mart in Denver is awesome. The Chinese supermarket in the same shopping center as Little Saigon is also excellent.
Andrea Nguyen says
Thanks for the tip, Lee! You're right about the other market in the Far East Center. It was sleepy by comparison to Little Saigon market but equally well stocked!
Tuty says
H-Mart in Lynnwood, Washington was opened last December in a former Mervyn's store. It's huge and finally, this is the only place I can buy kaffir lime leaves in North Seattle area. But the price is $45.00 a pound!! They sell them on $5/package. Can you believe that? I sincerely hope that it's cheaper in the Bay Area.
Rebecca says
Glad you made it to Federal, Andrea! Great meeting you at IACP--I hope next time you're in town (on tour for your new book?)that you eat at Little Saigon (in the same shopping complex as the shops in your post) It is wonderful!
Hanh T says
I don't know anything about Denver, but if you're ever in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area, let me know and I'd be glad to share my favorite spots!
I love your cookbook - I've bought it for three of my siblings and my mom.
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