No matter how many cookbooks you own, there are certain ones that you repeatedly reach for. They are your ‘go-to’ books written by your ‘go-to’ authors. These are women and men that you’ve relied upon for recipes that work, technical guidance, and/or compelling stories.
Such writers comprise your culinary brain trust. When you have a cooking quandary, you ask, “What does X have say about that?”
Grace Young is part of my culinary brain trust. Her first cookbook, The Wisdom of the Chinese Kitchen (1999), was a wonderful work on her upbringing in San Francisco’s Chinatown, her family stories and rich heritage. The spot-on recipe collection reflected her Cantonese background, spanning traditional and modern preparations.
My Wok Conversion
What struck me most about Wisdom was Grace’s intense focus on woks. She recounted her surprise discovery that many contemporary Chinese cooks use skillets instead of woks – an act of convenience that she questioned with more than just a hint of disdain. I was so taken by her passion (she was downright uppity!) for wok cooking that I went out and bought a carbon steel wok.
By the time Grace’s second book came out in 2004, I was hooked on Grace’s kitchen wisdom. I got a copy of The Breath of a Wok and took in all the different ways you can cook with a wok, stir-frying, deep-frying, steaming, poaching, you name it.
Grace had firmly set her foot on a path to inform the public on the usefulness of Chinese wok cookery. She traveled with a set of woks and digital photos of traditional techniques collected from her research. She collected recipes from Chinese cooks all over for The Breadth of a Wok , a beautifully photographed book. Grace's cookbooks have received numerous award recognition for stellar research and writing.
Wok Woman Warrior
Grace is calm yet feisty when she speaks of wok cooking. She’s a determined woman warrior of the wok. She writes because she has something to say.
A few weeks ago, I received Grace’s new book, Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge. It was obvious that her journey was multipurpose. Consider the lyrical title that inspires you to energetically stir-fry to the heavens.
But don't be fooled by the poetic title. Stir-Frying to The Sky’s Edge is full of practical and social purpose. Grace wants to inform. She wants you to cook. Within the 300 plus pages you’ll find:
Handy tips and helpful photographs: For the first time, I understood that my beat-up looking Joyce Chen wok had developed the proper patina. Page 23 offers images of a wok in different stages – as if to say, "You are not alone. Persist and it will pay off!” I struggle with rice and noodles sticking to my wok but Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge has pointers on how to wok those ingredients the smart way. (Hint: Listen for constant sizzling!)
Humor: Grace pulls you into her stir-frying obsession with levity. Opening sections like “Wok Facial Scrub” and “Wok Envy” grab your attention and frame the discussion on how to wash a wok and the fact that “hippest pan is the one that has been around for two thousand years.”
Global recipes: Chinese people reside all over the world. Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge is also about the Chinese diaspora. There are hyphenated Chinese recipes that reflect stir-frying from Peru, Burma, and Trinidad. Regional Chinese cooking is included, with little known Hakka dishes mixed in with preparations from Shanghai and Hunan. There are also plenty of stir-frying recipes familiar to Americans, including classic cashew chicken and beef with tomatoes – ubiquitous items on Chinese restaurants in the U.S.
History and social commentary: Grace attacks the history of chop suey with fervor. Her discussion of how chop suey became associated with the American concept of a stir-fry (and hence, Chinese food itself) is a mini-lesson on the Chinese experience in America. She flashes attitude, as she should for someone waging a small war to get people cooking and eating well.
Grace spent 3 ½ years on this book and it shows. She wants you to understand, appreciate and master the ancient art of Chinese wok cooking. Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge will help you achieve all of that and more. It will become a go-to cookbook in your kitchen.
Cooking the book: I have prepared a number of recipes from Grace’s book, including . . .
Diane
"Breath of a Wok", yes? Not "breadth"?
wayne (wotten1) wong
Grace Young's lucky to have such a renown colleague write such an uplifting review for her latest cookbook. I'm among those who still cringe from the Woman Warrior of the Wok's undisguised disdain of wok-wusses who use skillets to stir-fry. Gulp.
But after reading Andrea Nguyen's supportive summary---in a madcap "Let 'em eat for-real stir-fry" moment---I hereby declare my skillets would be frisbeed out the nearest window in favor of a well-aged, seasoned carbon-steel wok---immediately after Ms Young converts my woefully weak electric kitchen to magically mighty gas with a huge oven and stove-top.
But even if that doesn't happen, I'll probably still buy a copy of "Stir-Frying to the Sky's Edge" given Ms Nguyen's staunch support.
I know, I know ... we skillet guys are sooo easy.
Veeda
I really appreciate all your book reviews. It helps me determine which ones to add to my collection!
Andrea Nguyen
Diane-- Thanks for catching the typo. I made the edit. On the other hand, the book does show the breadth of a wok! 🙂
@Wotten1: Come to wok side of cooking! A flat-bottomed wok is actually great on an electric burner.
Jerry
Carbon steel or cast iron? Couple of sites online recommend the thinner cast iron available from China. I'll have to find the books.
Diane
I think it was a freudian slip...God knows I use my wok for so many things, it has tons of "breadth."
anh
You can get a decent carbon steel wok with a flat bottom at Target for around $20.
Andrea Nguyen
Jerry -- carbon steel works just fine for me. That's what most people use, even the pros. Cast iron is heavy for a wok, which gets unwieldy when you're cooking.
Anh -- yep, my Joyce Chen set was about $20. Woks are cheap and versatile tools.
Mom
I love trying new an exciting recipes!
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It helps me determine which ones to add to my collection!
Rae
I bought this book after reading your entry about it last week -- what an invaluable addition! Her directions are very clear and concise and I picked up a bunch of new tricks. Thanks for the review, without it I would never have known about this great find.
Wedgeoli
Breath of a wok is one of those few cookbooks that have truly transformed the way I cook. It's so much more than just a collection of recipes.
Her simple innovation that, even though you are "stir" frying, one should throw the meat and let it sit for 30-45 seconds was a brilliant way to replicate the high-heat searing of restaurant ovens on the home stove.
IanG
I found that a carbon steel wok distorts too easily from use, and then can't sit flat on an electric surface any more - and if it's not flat, it has heat spots and not enough heat overall.
My main wok is now a flat-bottomed cast iron one, and it works very well. Its only drawback is controlling heat, in that it is slow to cool down. This is a minor matter, however. I like how heavy it is during stir-frying, as it does not shift around while I am vigorously flipping the food. I bought this wok at the Great Wall Supermarket, and have not seen them on sale there since.
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Good read. Thanks for sharing this cookbook review. Maybe we all have our own food obsession and stir fried dish is definitely one of them. Thanks for posting.
Rahul Chatterjee
Hi Andrea,
I am an ardent admirer of your work and cherish my copy of "Into the Vietnamese Kitchen".
I already own "The Breath of a Wok" and was wondering if you (and your readers) could help me understand what additional ground does the book " Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge" cover? Does " Stir-Frying to the Sky’s Edge" cover additional material that "The Breath of a Wok" does not?
I thank you in advance for the response.
Andrea Nguyen
Hi Rahul -- Sky's Edge has Grace traveling the world to collect people's personal stories and recipes. It's about the Chinese diaspora so there are Indian-Chinese recipes, for example. It's a rich book but if you know how to stir-fry, you're on your way! I own both because I appreciate Grace's scholarship very much.
Thank you for writing and supporting Asian food and cooking!