I've been feeling like one of the luckiest people on Earth these days. A few weeks ago, I was invited to go on a press tour sponsored by Sofitel Hotels and Cathay Pacific airline to China and Vietnam. Our Vietnam visit was in Hanoi. I have not been to Hanoi, the capitol of Vietnam, since winter of 2003 – one of the coldest winters they’d had in years. This trip was the polar opposite.
It was sweltering, around 100F with humidity. But I really didn’t mind as Hanoi is now a more modern yet still charming place. The airport is bigger and the immigration people smile. The patina of slight neglect adorns many Hanoi structures.
We only had 2 full days in Hanoi and I could have remained at the Metropole Hotel, which was recently renovated and expanded to launch Sofitel’s Legend brand of historic properties. But that was out of the question! I couldn’t wait to hit the streets at 7am to stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake and see people exercising, playing badminton, and visiting with friends.
I’m on my way home and jet lag lingers, but I couldn’t wait to share a few snapshots and notes with you.
Hanoi food remains remarkably fantastic and pure in that simplicity that is so very northern Vietnamese. I made it to the Hang Be wet market and Dong Xuan wholesale market to see what kinds of food products and sundries Vietnamese people purchased these days. I had pho, bun cha rice noodles, freshly steamed banh cuon rice noodles, and cha ca fish and rice noodles at the famous Cha Ca La Vong restaurant. Those are all must-have Hanoi specialties.
Hanoi people are graceful as ever. I met Quyen, a distant cousin that I didn’t know I had until a few weeks ago. A founder of Vietnam’s preeminent PR firm, she was a power woman who dressed to the nines and traveled internationally. Quyen took me to visit the restaurants that she and her friends own. The décor was chic Vietnamese that echoed the traditional and modern. I was duly impressed by Wild Rice, Wild Lotus, Seasons and Moon River.
The images above give you a glimpse of the sophisticated Vietnamese restaurants. The menus are a combination of modern Vietnamese and western dishes. Check out the restaurant site for a sense of Vietnam today.
My cookbook, Into the Vietnamese Kitchen, was displayed for sale at the Metropole Hotel gift shop. We took a property tour and I nearly fell over when I saw the book on their shelves. Of course, we needed a commemorative photo!
The trip was fast and furious. I’m not quite sure what time zone I am in. However, I eagerly look forward to my next visit to Hanoi.
Traveled to Hanoi lately? What were your impressions?
Thao says
Love this post! Love your this site! I visited Ha Noi for the first time about 5 years ago and had an awful experience. I couldn't eat much cause of too much msg and I got sick with a high fever...so I missed out a lot! Anyway, I really want to visit Ha Noi again! Thank you for sharing your experience with us!
Karen says
Welcome home, Andrea. You've given me a good hunger for a bowl of bun cha right this minute. Isn't Hanoi amazing? It's changed so dramatically through the years, but the food remains consistently wonderful. I don't think I could have imagined so many fancy restaurants and trendy cafes (nor the chic modern designs, cute new Vespas, ATMs...) when I first stayed there in the mid-90s. When Jerry and I returned last month for the first time in a few years, I was thrilled to find the same little sidewalk stalls serving the same fantastic foods on tiny stools. That much never changes. I love it.
Alex Ong says
I miss Cha Ca La Vong & Bun Cha. And Hanoi pho.
Did you get a foot massage by the Metropole pool sipping Gin & Tonic?
julie says
thanks for sharing about your travels, andrea! i went to hanoi for the first time earlier this year and just loved wandering around the streets. so much to take in. i had my first bun cha and first cha ca as well and loved both. it's such an unusual thing to taste something in your own cuisine and yet have never had before. where did you go in china? am looking forward to reading more about your trip!
Kim says
I love your post about Hanoi, Andrea. The trip sounds so great! Hanoi was one of my favorite stops on our last trip. Though we had a great time in Saigon, there was something a little more peaceful and accessible about Hanoi. How do you compare the food in Hanoi to the food in Saigon? I had heard so many times "the food is way better in the South" but I won't say the food is worse in Hanoi... just different (in a good way!). My husband still talks about the bun cha, the bia hoi, and an unforgettable roadside purveyor of grilled chicken feet.
Loan Luong says
I love your post, Andrea. The pictures make me long for all the street foods -- bun cha, nem, com bui, and fresh com wrapped in a lotus leaf.
twitter.com/cookingwithamy says
Welcome home! I fell for Cha Ca La Vong in Hanoi too but then discovered Aux Delices around the corner from my house makes a great version of it. Sometimes it seems I have to go half way around the world to learn about something in my own 'hood.
Angela says
I am actually planning a trip to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City! Wasn't sure which one to go to at first since we only have 6 days. I can't wait to eat all the yummy food and discover the wonderful culture in Vietnam! Glad you posted about it.
Thanks!
Anh says
This post make me very home-sick!
twitter.com/aqnguyen says
Thanks everyone. Some people say that Hanoi is sleepy but I'm glad to know that you think that it totally rocks. MSG is an issue with street food vendors, per the locals I met. Just be mindful and observe before you sit down at one of the plastic stools and order up!
momof3 says
We took our twin three-year-old Chinese daughters to Hanoi over a year ago to adopt our little son, then 4 months old. It was quite an adventure, staying in the Old Town with three little kids, but a great one we would not trade for anything. We got to know many of the restaurants on "our" street and, as the three weeks wore on and our energy waned, became very happy doing take-out from Kangaroo Cafe, a little mom and pop cafe-cum-travel agency that made just what we needed: tasty, simple, kid-friendly food. We fell in love with Hanoi's cityscape, food and people and have been planning our next trip since we got home. Think we need to wait 'til the kids are a bit older, though ... that's a mighty long journey for smallfry.
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katherine says
Andrea, do you have, or can you direct me to, a recipe for the "special" dipping sauce that is served at Cha Ca La Vong? Not everyone gets it; you have to know what to ask for. (I don't know what it is called.) It is a little strange-tasting, but goes well with the cha ca. I hope you can either give me the name of it or a recipe.
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How awesome is that, one to have a trip of the life time and two to find the results of all your labors half way round the world. What an incredible adventure.
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Cheap car hire says
I wish we would have more Vietnam restaraunts, I really love it.
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I'd love to travel Hanoi this year and spend my vacation together with my kids.
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I've heard that the dishes in Hanoi are different and taste very delicious.
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That and planning/hosting a conference at work and the usually spring yard and garden work are my excuses for not blogging since... April 13th. Sheesh.. joy 2-21
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The images above give you a glimpse of the sophisticated Vietnamese restaurants. The menus are a combination of modern Vietnamese and western dishes.
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