Some people say that after visiting Hanoi once, they never need to go back. I totally disagree. I love visiting Vietnam’s capitol. Even though there’s traffic and a ton of motor bikes, it is a respite from the hustle and bustle of Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). You can cross the street in Hanoi with slightly less caution than you would in Saigon!
Hanoi is more conservative, traditional, and graceful than Saigon. I was just there last week on a press trip, courtesy of Sofitel Hotel and Cathay Pacific. After posting my initial impressions and photos, I wanted to offer a few solid tips for those of you who’d like to visit Hanoi.
What to See in Hanoi?
Lots. If you’re into Vietnamese culture and traditions, head to the Temple of Literature, stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake, get lost in the maze of the Old Quarter (get a taxi back to your hotel!). Go early in the day when things are less crowded. Hanoi sites are small, well maintained, and doable in a couple of leisurely days. The water puppet show is a must-see once in your lifetime. It’s amazing how they move the puppets underwater and you’ll hear classic Vietnamese music too.
Saigon’s sites, with exception to the Reunification Palace, are less charming. Hanoi is the seat of Vietnam’s government and they make sure that things look good. It’s national pride.
Find out when you can visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. It’s closed many days and the hours are limited. However, to stand in line with school kids and country people wearing their best outfits is to understand Ho Chi Minh’s place in modern Vietnam. Don’t wear sleeveless shirts and leave your camera behind. The first signals disrespect and the second is a no-no. Once inside, you’ll see him in everlasting peace as you steadily march around the body. There are only 4 embalmed leaders in the world and Ho Chi Minh is one of them. (Apparently his real body is rarely shown but I like to take part in the pomp and circumstance any way.)
People Watch
Hanoi is slow paced compared to Saigon. I love to sit back and watch the parade of Hanoians and visitors. People from all over Vietnam converge on Hanoi to visit the historic sites.
Last week, there was a group of women decked out in their finest ao dais. They were properly coiffed and wearing high heels. They fanned themselves in the heat, all the while being led by a tour guide through the Presidential palace grounds. I nearly wilted just watching them bear the 40C/105F temperature so well.
What to Eat in Hanoi?
Compared to Saigon, everything is served in smaller portions in Hanoi. That means you can eat even more food! One morning, I had a bowl of pho on the street then a tiny bowl at the Metropole Hotel’s breakfast buffet!
If you’re staying around Hoan Kiem lake, walk over to Hang Be market to survey Hanoi fare. It’s not the best but is a good primer. I started off my first morning with banh cuon steamed rice rolls. If you want those funky handmade knives I spoke about a few weeks ago, they are sold at the Hang Be market.
Cha Ca La Vong restaurant on Cha Ca street in the Old Quarter is famous for its rendition of the turmeric catfish dish. That’s all they serve. Sit down and order it. They’ll being a brazier and skillet of fish. You put the dill and scallion into the skillet. Then assemble little bowls of fish, mint leaves, noodles, sauce (get the shrimp (mam tom) one for authenticity) and peanuts. I missed not having the toasted banh da rice crackers but they don’t offer it with their version. Don't forget the beer, whether you're at Cha Ca La Vong or eating at home!
There are many other Hanoi specialty foods, including: green papaya salad with beef jerky, bun cha grilled pork and rice noodles (assemble all the stuff in a bowl and eat), and bun thang rice noodle soup (a surf-and-turf combination). (See Into the Vietnamese Kitchen for my family recipes of these specialties.)
Where to Stay in Hanoi
On my first trip in 2003, I stayed at the Hilton Opera hotel. That is not the “Hanoi Hilton” where American soldiers were kept. It remains a wonderful hotel.
This time, I was a guest at the Metropole, a historic and lovely establishment. The Metropole recently expanded so you can pick from the chic, new Opera Wing or the historic wing with its well-worn wood floors. You can’t lose with any of the rooms.
The service is a terrific hybrid blend of Vietnam and France. If your Vietnamese language skills are rusty(!), the Metropole’s staff speaks English well. Note the Vietnamese clientele at the hotel restaurants; most of them are locals. There are many other options in Hanoi too so book as your pocketbook allows!
Wherever you stay, ask the staff for recommendations on where to eat. Tell them you're interested in good food, not just the stuff printed in travel books!
Hanoi Airport
I flew Dragon Air, the baby version of Cathay Pacific. The Hanoi airport has vastly improved over the years – it’s cleaner and much more modern -- but it’s got terrible air flow. The Dragon Airlines staff joked that they are used to working in a sauna. It’s an hour drive to Hanoi central so plan accordingly.
Got some tips or favorite places to visit in Hanoi? Don't keep them to yourself!
Related links:
- Travel tips to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)
- Tips for getting a Vietnam travel visa
- How to eat safely and stay healthy while traveling in
Vietnam - Food souvenirs worth bringing back from Vietnam
Preview travel and eating in Vietnam through these Vietnam travel series
by these culinary experts:
- Luke Nguyen’s Vietnam (Luke is based in Sydney)
- Rick Stein’s Asian Odyssey - Vietnam (Rick is based
in the U.K. and Sydney)
Jeffrey Chapman says
Not want to go back? That's crazy talk. I've been to Hanoi three times, and I can't wait to find an opportunity to go back. I love it there. It's an amazingly dynamic place with food that makes my mouth water just thinking about it.
Mary says
We were in Hanoi for three amazing months in '07; I'd go back tomorrow and stay longer if I could. When we first arrived we ate at Brother's Cafe near the Temple of Literature. They serve a buffet for lunch so it was a great place to sample foods, and gave lots of choices to my then 5-year-old. We grew especially fond of KOTO and the Hoa Sua restaurant; both places that train disadvantaged kids to work in tourism, where they can earn a decent living. And the food at both was lovely! For Thanksgiving we ate at Bobby Chin's. Mmmm. We also had uncounted amazing food while sitting on toddler-sized plastic chairs on sidewalks. Did I mention I'd go back tomorrow?
Lisa says
We've been to Hanoi twice, loved it and hope to be back! For reasonably priced hotels with excellent service we highly recommend all the Elegance Hotels as well as the Hanoi Imperial. We ate too many good things to count, many of them streetside. I would say that Bun Cha is the one Hanoi specialty not to be missed. We enjoyed Quan An Ngon a few times on each trip - it's a big open air restaurant with a huge menu of street foods prepared at little stalls and brought to your table - sort of an upscale food court. It's packed with locals all the time and it's a great place to try a little bit of lots of different things. The Metropole is too fancy for us to stay there, but we did really enjoy the High Tea and Chocolate Buffet as a lovely treat.
twitter.com/aqnguyen says
Great tips on eating and visiting Hanoi! I met Tracey Lister (former chef at KOTO) last week. Terrific woman with lots of insights on Hanoi. She now runs the Hanoi Cooking Centre: http://hanoicookingcentre.com/
Hue says
I studied abroad in Ha Noi for 5 months and went through crazy withdrawals when I left.
Did you get a chance to visit the silk village, ceramic village, or le mat (snake village) on the outskirts of the city? All great places to explore!
Ourman says
Hanoi is a wonderful city. I came here to work for KOTO in 2004 and stayed there till 2007 as the fundraiser for their current restaurant.
I left for a couple of years, but I missed it too much and now I'm back.
I met a local woman and we're to marry in October. So it looks like I am here for life and I'm very happy about that.
Glad you enjoyed the city so much. Bun Cha is far and away the best food to try in Hanoi. Pho is great but bun cha is unrivaled. It's incredible that it is virtually unheard of away from Hanoi.
Truth About Abs says
"...get lost in the maze of the Old Quarter..." ...now thats sounds fun! Can't wait for my trip!
Monica says
I cannot wait to go back to Hanoi. I LOVED it there!! I also was there for a few months in 2007, and we stayed in a variety of places during that time - at the Somerset, at the Lucky Star Hotel in the Old Quarter, and in a rented apartment down by the Vincom Towers.
I found it to be such a livable city, and the food was fantastic. La, Cyclo and Cafe Mocha were among our favorite lunch spots. KOTO was great. So was Tamarind. Great food and happy hour at I-Box.
In addition to the obviously awesome Vietnamese food, we had great Indian, Thai, sushi, and even Italian. When we needed to have a more US experience, we'd hit the afternoon chocolate buffet at the Metropole or Bobby Chinn's.
I think about Hanoi all the time. It was wonderful!
Lori K says
While cameras are not allowed when going to view 'Uncle Ho', you can check them. When I went a couple of years ago, it was a little odd because you check all bags at the entrance and they take all your stuff to the exit for your convinience. You may feel uneasy about this but I had no problems. I was really touched to see the old man in front of me, who looked like he was a veteran (from Vietnam, not America) with a prosthetic leg honoring Ho Chi Minh. They keep you moving when you are in the viewing room but it feels like going to church. What an amazing experience! Also, I booked an overnight boat excursion with Handspan and went to the coast to Ha Long Bay. This place is not to be missed.
twitter.com/aqnguyen says
All your great comments and tips on visiting Hanoi makes me want to go back! I agree, no worries on checking cameras at the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. You get your stuff back. It's just unnerving.
Ourman: Congratulations on your future nuptials!!
jason molinari says
I would return to Hanoi in a heartbeat. We much preferred it to Saigon.
Sohbet Et says
When I read around the internet by chance. really nice page. Thank you
mynet sohbet says
Oh my God, what this site is a great site that I like you so much beautiful old library with a 5-6site that yours is the best we can say. You have added many wonderful articles and your homepage is pretty high on the next page prli prleri so good that a good site
OysterCulture says
What a great write up. I'm bookmarking this post for when we get to go. It sounds
just amazing until you got to the 105 degree heat that is, that just sucks the energy out of you
bahamas travel says
O really excellent food picture.I want to test it.I think it is very nice testy as shown.Nice tips about travel
Vietnam City Guide says
it'll take you long time to try all Hanoi street food 🙂
You can find more tips about Hanoi travel here:
http://vietnamcity.com
Hoa Nguyen says
Great entry! I'm from Hanoi and I can certainly relate to your enjoyment of bun cha and other street food. Thanks for posting some pictures of 'home' for Hanoians like me!
shop taobao china says
oh I liked your post
Chanel Bags Outlet says
Court case Brown vs. the Board of Education, which integrated schools across the country and overturned the "separate but equal" ruling of Plessy vs. Ferguson.
Mike says
Thank you for posting this, it is so useful
Canada Goose Jakker says
While there is life there is hope.
marlon says
I really love this site! You must add many wonderful articles and your homepage is pretty high on the next page prli prleri so good that a good site
Vietnam travel says
In Hanoi, Vietnamese Cuisine you can indulge in delicious dishes from pho (traditional Vietnamese soup) and a huge range of seafood, fish and meat dishes to the best spring rolls in town. I like noodle here.
Jeanie says
Take a look at http://www.hanoifoodtour.com (or vietnamfoodtour) if you plan to Hanoi and enjoy its amazing food. I had been there 2 months ago and had awesome time with them.
Karl says
My wife and I booked with EatVietnam (http://eatvietnam.net) and turned out that it's the best experience in our trip. We planned to do just one day with them but ended up sticking with them for a whole week. Jenni is a cheerful, energetic, honest girl and she helped us much more than she was paid for. We left absolutely satisfied.