Sometimes the simplest ingredients come together more marvelously than you expect. This dumpling recipe from Sichuan province in China is one of them. My friend Carl Chu, a Chinese food expert and author, told me about the crescent-shaped dumplings, saying that I needed to check them out when I went to Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province. I put them on my hit list for this most recent trip to Asia.
Zhong jiaozi – the dumplings are named after their creator, a person named Zhong – were among the first things that we ate at a xiao chi (snack) joint located kitty corner from the Chengdu Sheraton. Frankly, they were not great. The dipping sauce was overly sweet and the filling lackluster.
I sampled one and moved on to the other dishes we’d ordered. But I’m obsessive about dumplings and kept thinking about the little plump crescents and how they could be made to taste really delicious.
Once home I poured through my books and realized that the filling was ridiculously straightforward. It’s basically flavored with lots of ginger-infused water, according to Fuchsia Dunlop’s Land of Plenty cookbook.
The ginger that I saw at Chengdu markets were small relative to most ginger sold abroad. Given that, I decided to pump up the ginger. After a several trials and tinkering with the seasonings, I came up with the filling recipe below. It’s soft and wet so be sure to neaten it up as you shape the dumplings. Get fatty ground pork for the best flavor. And, stir/beat the filling to incorporate the liquid really well.
RECIPE
Sichuan Crescent Dumplings
Zhong Jiaozi
If you have good store-bought skins, use 40 of them. I prefer my homemade dough, which is fresh and just like what would be employed by Chengdu cooks. [11/5/10 Update: Mil queried me on the soupyness of the original recipe post. The discussion got oddly heated and then it dawned upon me that I'd forgotten and ingredient: scallion. I had 3 different versions of this filling going and a mistake was made. I also slightly upped the amount of pork because it's easier to purchase.]
Makes 40 dumplings to serve 4 to 6
Filling
Chubby 2-inch 2 ½-inch-section fresh ginger, unpeeled
¼ cup 6 tablespoons water
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon white pepper
1 large egg white, beaten
2 teaspoons regular (light) soy sauce
1 ½ teaspoons Shaoxing rice wine
½ pound 7 ounces ground pork, fattier kind preferred
⅓ cup lightly packed finely chopped scallion, white and green parts
1 pound Basic Dumpling Dough (see Asian Dumplings, page 22)
Sauce
3 tablespoons light (regular) soy sauce
1 tablespoon dark (thick) soy sauce
2 ½ teaspoons sugar
1 ½ teaspoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons Chile Oil (purchased or homemade, see recipe on page 216 of Asian Dumplings)
2 cloves garlic, crushed and mixed with 1 tablespoon water
1. Halve the ginger lengthwise. Put it cut side down on your work surface, then smash the ginger with the flat side of your knife. Give it a couple of good whacks. Transfer to a bowl and pour the water over it. Set aside for 15 minutes to soak.
2. Meanwhile, make the basic dumpling dough, if you have not already. Set it aside to rest.
3. Drain the ginger liquid, and discard or save the ginger for another use. (It has about half of its original strength.) Add the salt, pepper, egg white, soy sauce, and rice wine. Stir to combine the seasonings well.
4. Put the pork and scallion in a bowl. Use a fork to break it up. Gradually stir in the liquid seasonings. When all the liquid has been added, stir the pork vigorously, almost beating it, to create a soft mixture that is slightly sticky. You don’t want to see any liquid visible. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes. The filling can be made 1 day in advance and refrigerated; return to room temperature before using. You should have about 1 ⅔ 1 ¾ cups.
5. Stir together all the sauce ingredients to dissolve the sugar. Set at the table.
4. In the meantime, make 20 wrappers from half of the dough. (Or, make 10 at a time from a quarter of the dough.) Aim for 3-inch-wide wrappers. For guidance, read pages 24-25 of Asian Dumplings and watch this video posted at Asiandumplingtips.com on how to form basic dumpling wrappers.
5. When a batch of wrappers is done, assemble some dumplings. For each one, take a wrapper and hold it in a slightly cupped hand. Scoop up about 2 teaspoons of filling with a bamboo dumpling spatula, dinner knife, or fork and position it slightly off-center toward the upper half of the wrapper. Then fold, pleat, and press to create a crescent-shaped half moon. (Watch this how-to video if you need an assist with making a half moon and other basic Asian dumpling shapes.)
Place each finished dumpling on a parchment paper-lined baking tray with a good ½ inch between each. Repeat with the other wrappers before forming and filling wrappers from the remaining dough. Cover the finished dumplings with a dry dishtowel as you make the rest.
6. To cook the dumplings, fill a large pot half way with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Gently drop half of the dumplings into the water, then use a wooden spoon to nudge them to prevent sticking. Cook the dumplings for about 6 minutes, or until they float to the surface, look glossy, and are puffed up and translucent. Use a slotted spoon or skimmer to scoop out the dumplings from the pot, briefly drain, and deposit in a shallow bowl or serving plate. Cover with a large inverted bowl to keep warm.
Return the water to a boil and cook the remaining dumplings. When they are done, return the first batch to the water to reheat them for a good minute. Serve the hot dumplings immediately with the sauce either in a communal bowl for people to help themselves or divided up among individual rice bowls or large dipping sauce dishes.
Mzungu says
Wow such a simple recipe. They look great, I bet they tasted great as well
burkie says
looks fabulous, andrea!
Jeanette says
The sauce sounds really delicious. I love dumplings and the spicy sauce makes it stand out.
Mil says
I tried the filling recipe and the dumplings leaked after sitting around for maybe 5 minutes. Should I reduce the amount of water? I did stir till I didn't see any water before wrapping. Thanks.
Andrea Nguyen says
Mil: As with all Asian dumpling fillings, you need to stir vigorously to incorporate all the water. As mentioned in step 4, try beating it. Traditional cooks stir with their hands and finger and throw the meat against the walls of the mixing bowl! Ground meat is dry and will absorb the moisture as it rests for 30 minutes or more. Did you let the filling rest before you used it?
If you did, try omitting the egg white. That will reduce the amount of liquid. Or, work 1 teaspoon of cornstarch into your mixture. Regardless, mix it really well.
Mil says
Yes, I did let the filling rest, then water reappeared. So I stirred vigorously again.
Anyways, why would the meat absorb the water whilst resting? Is it a brining process? Doesn't seem salty enough though?
7 tbsp water = 90 ml. 80% of egg white is water, so that's another 25 ml or so? Plus wine and soya sauce. Total liquid added is about 132 g. Weight of meat: 196 g, and some of this is fat which doesn't absorb water. I reckon the lean meat is supposed to absorb about 80% of its weight in (non-brined) water. Seems like a lot of liquid? Should I use more (lean) meat, perhaps?
Andrea Nguyen says
Mil: Ground meat tends to suck up the seasonings. I realize that it seems like a lot of liquid but that is the way that these dumplings are prepared. Try the troubleshooting that suggested. Reduce the water to 1/4 cup. That should do it too!
Btw, are you using freshly made wrappers or store-bought wrappers? You have to seal the wrappers well. Homemade wrappers don't require water to seal. However, you need to moisten the edge of the store-bought wrappers.
Exotic Cooking Recipes says
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Andrea Nguyen says
Mil: I'm going to permanently reduce the water to 1/4 cup. Here's why: often times, there is a film of flour on freshly made wrappers that absorbs some of the moisture in the filling. Since I don't know what people's situations are in their kitchens, it's better to hedge on the safe side and use less liquid. The flavor will still be great.
THANK YOU for reporting back on this recipe to help make it better!
Mil says
The dumplings I made didn't leak through the edges. They leaked first through the bottom, then the sides and even the top after a while.
I doubt that the small amount of flour on the wrapper, homemade or store bought (which I used), made a difference to whether the dumplings leaked. There was almost 1 tsp liquid per dumpling!
Stirring, beyond mixing the meat and water evenly, doesn't affect the absorption or lack of, I don't think?
I'm still wondering if/how/why minced meat can absorb liquids, like a whole piece of meat? Aren't the cell membranes destroyed in the grinder, so there's nothing to keep liquids in the cells? If that's the case, the 1/2 tsp liquid per dumpling in your revised recipe would still make a hole in the wrapper in no time. Your revision cuts the amount of liquid that the lean meat has to absorb from 80% to 65% of its weight but that's still a lot. If the chicken I brine absorbs as much water, it would end up looking like a (small) turkey!
Andrea Nguyen says
Mil: If you take a look at Asian dumpling fillings across the board, you'll note that there is a fair amount of liquid stirred into the filling of ground meat and vegetables. I've seen filling recipes that call for 1 pound of ground meat, 1 cup of water, 1 tablespoon of rice wine and an egg.
Without knowing exactly what kind of commercial wrappers you used, I don't know why they leaked. I've unfortunately never had that problem. Note that these dumplings are jiaozi so you should be using a shuijiao/suigow or pot sticker type of wrapper NOT a wonton wrapper.
Try making your own wrappers. You'll see the difference.
Ivy Manning says
When I lay dieing, I pray my husband feeds these to me and I draw my last breath smiling, with chili oil-slicked lips. Thanks, Miss Andrea!
Mil says
Yes, I know what a jiaozi is, and the 5 g meat per wrapper in your recipe might make a wonton but it ain't no jiaozi! Sorry to be rude.
Andrea Nguyen says
Mil: I encourage you to make the wrappers from scratch. They make this dumpling (all Asian dumplings) sing. You seem to value a good dumpling so take it to the limit. I can't predict how fillings will react to every skin out there. However, I know what the average commercial skin is like and there are varying thicknesses of jiaozi, gyoza, and wontons. Asian markets have the best selections and turnover rates so you'll get better/fresher ones than at regular markets.
To truly understand how Asian dumplings come together make the wrappers from scratch. If there are different kinds of skins where you shop, try them.
Additionally, I've researched and made a lot of dumplings. If you like the flavor of the above filling, then tweak the moisture level to meet your needs. There are ratios to these fillings and I've reviewed most of them. I know that the seemingly excessive amount of liquid works. It has worked for Asian cooks for many many years.
It's obvious that the filling doesn't work for you. I've offered you a number of workarounds and am not sure what else you are looking for.
Mil says
'If you take a look at Asian dumpling fillings across the board, you'll note that there is a fair amount of liquid stirred into the filling of ground meat and vegetables. I've seen filling recipes that call for 1 pound of ground meat, 1 cup of water, 1 tablespoon of rice wine and an egg.'
Everyone said the world was flat. That didn't make it flat. Everyone said Y2K was a problem but it wasn't.
'I've offered you a number of workarounds and am not sure what else you are looking for.'
I'm looking for a scientific explanation on why minced pork is able to absorb 80% plus of its weight in water, as you claim. But you are no Harold McGee, obviously. Or is the water supposed to be absorbed by the wrapper, which you seem to be implying?
Fuschia Dunlop isn't Chinese. She spent maybe a year or two in China? Why is your recipe based on what an English woman says? There are a lot of Chinese in the world, you know?
Andrea Nguyen says
Mil: Fuchsia has spent MANY years in China. She is widely respected by the Chinese. That's the formula that she uses in her recipe for these dumplings. However, I also have about 30 cookbooks on Asian dumplings in my library. Most of those works are authored by Chinese people.
I've written a book on Asian dumplings and all of those recipes have been prepared (tested) by other cooks.
I feel that I have a certain knowledge that is above average. I do not purport to be Harold McGee as Harold is Harold.
Over the course of researching and developing recipes for Asian dumplings, many of which are Chinese in origin, there is a fair amount of liquid that is employed to infuse flavor and juiciness.
Traditionally, you'd hand chop the meat and then mix it with all the seasonings, which act like a marinade of sorts.
I do not know why you want to keep battling on these issues. Have you remade the filling as suggested? Have you made your own wrappers to understand the difference between commercial and freshly made ones? If you did those things, you might gain the kind of practical and scientific understanding that you are seeking. Go into your kitchen, tinker, and have fun!
Diane says
My project for this rainy day is to make these. That photo at top is soooooo tempting.
Kim says
Hi Andrea!
I'm having a dumpling potluck and I've been making the above dumplings, along with your recipe for siu mai and turnip/radish cakes (law bok goy?). I am up to my ears in dumplings! I actually think I've made too much, so I'm wondering if you have any advice re freezing the radish cake and the siu mai. I've already steamed, but not fried, the radish cake, and the siu mai are sitting on a tray in the refrigerator to be steamed later. Would you freeze the siu mai before or after steaming? Will the radish cake keep in the freezer if I wrap it tightly?
Thanks in advance! I really admire your blog, your books and all of your fabulous recipes. And I especially envy all of the great trips you have taken lately!
tictoc says
I don't know why Mil is being so rude, or why anyone would expect you to provide a "scientific" explanation. A lot of other people have successful results using liquids in their dumpling recipes, so I don't see how Mil's analogy of "the world is flat" has any relevance whatsoever.
Blog comments can be a great way for cooks to figure out where recipes can go wrong IF people approach it in a mutually supportive, helpful manner. I was recently reading the comments attached to a pastry recipe on David Lebovitz's blog. A few people had failures and complained, but through the comments it was determined that it was the difference in the kind of butter used that seemed to determine failure or success. A few well-meaning comments, readers willing to experiment, a little analysis, and the whole community benefits from the insight gained.
I think the key difference in that pastry recipe (the amount of fat in the butter) might also be related to why dumpling mix might give off water. Perhaps you need the fattier ground pork typically sold in Asian markets in order to have enough oil to emulsify with the liquid in the recipe. Cooked dumplings contain a lot of liquid; one teaspoon of liquid inside a cooked dumpling seems reasonable.
In the pastry recipe, readers who used American butter ended up with a dough that "weeped" (gave off a lot of water) while it was resting, but readers who used a European butter (higher fat content) didn't have any problems with the dough.
xxl says
May I ask why Andrea shouldn't be expected to provide an explanation? It's not like she's a hobbyist. She's supposed to be a pro, isn't she? A pro on Chinese dumplings who consults an English woman for a recipe on Chinese dumplings!
As for emulsification, that's a process that takes place with liquid fat, but most of the fat in minced pork is solid.
Andrea Nguyen says
I was thinking about what Mil brought up, then I went back into my notes -- when I was working on 3 versions of this filling -- and realized that I'd forgotten an ingredient: scallion.
This morning, I mixed up the filling one more time, adding a smidgen extra of pork because it's too fussy to call for 7 ounces. Things came together just as before.
In my dumpling recipes, I often state a yield amount for the filling. That is a little cross-reference for me and you! (Most dumpling recipes don't offer that little check.) Originally it was 1 3/4 cups. But today it was more like a good 1 2/3 cups. In any event, that's enough filing for 40 dumplings at 2 teaspoons each.
Sorry that Mil got so frustrated but it was for a good reason. Nuff said. Let's cook and eat.
Jenny says
Your dough recipe uses the hot water method. That's for dumplings which are steamed or fried, not boiled. Do you have a good reason for deviating from the traditional way? Thanks very much.
Andrea Nguyen says
Hi Jenny, hot water dough is traditionally called for steamed and fried dumplings. However, I've found that it works just as well for poached dumplings. Rolling out the dough by hand is a lot easier than when cold water is used. The flour in the U.S. has more gluten than flour in Asia. Hot water is really great for the many cooking methods. I know it sounds strange but it works!
Jenny says
So...your dough recipe is for American flour only? I should use cold water if I use Asian flour, or not? Asian meaning which country? What about flour from Australia, France or Italy?
Andrea Nguyen says
Hi Jenny -- it's a matter of the amount of gluten/protein in the flour. It doesn't need to be American wheat flour. Asian flour is overly bleached and has a moderately-low amount of gluten.
In the "Ingredients" section of the Asian Dumplings cookbook, I discuss flour. Take a look at page 12 for a discussion of all-purpose flour and its moderate level of gluten.
I've tried cold water dough with various kinds of flours and find that the resulting dough does not yield as easily to a rolling pin when you roll out the dough for the wrappers. Knowing your flour is important for making wrappers.
Check online to see if your flour manufacturer has information on gluten levels. Then experiment and see what works best.
jenny says
Ok, now I'm really confused after reading page 12 which says 'Wheat flour in Asia is very similar to all-purpose flour in the United States.' But your comment here says it's anything but. Which is it?
Since you use hot water for jiaozi, why do you use cold water for siumai (pg 64)? If jiaozi dough made with American flour warrants hot water, shouldn't American siumai wrappers use hot water too?
Hope you don't mind the questions. My teacher taught me to raise my hand and speak up when there's anything I don't understand! Thanks very much.
Andrea Nguyen says
Dear Jenny,
The two flours are the very similar but the sentence that follows what you excerpted is about gluten levels. There's also a statement about bleaching. Bleached flour reacts differently to the hot/cold water. Even though the stated gluten levels are similar, bleached flour is not as resilient as unbleached when you're working with it. I prefer to use unbleached, all-purpose flour for savory dumpling wrappers as there is a little more stretch. You can try bleached and see if you like it.
Unbleached produced a nicer mouthfeel and terrific flavor. And, the dough yields to your rolling pin when making the wrappers. It's great.
The dough for suimai is a different dough.
Thanks for the questions. The best way to learn, though, is to cook.
mack says
Let me make sure I get this right.
US flour and Asian flour have similar amount of gluten. In other words, you're retracting your previous comment that said 'The flour in the U.S. has more gluten than flour in Asia.'
You use hot water because the flour you use is unbleached, not because of where the flour is from or how much gluten it has. Your previous comment that said 'it's a matter of the amount of gluten/protein in the flour' is no longer valid. Hence, anyone using bleached American/Asian flour should use cold water for poached/boiled jiaozi. And anyone using unbleached American/Asian flour should use hot water. Is that correct? How much cold water did you use for American bleached flour?
'Unbleached...dough yields to your rolling pin when making the wrappers.' Compared to bleached dough?
'I prefer to use unbleached, all-purpose flour for savory dumpling wrappers as there is a little more stretch.' Doesn't more stretch mean less yield, and more yield mean less stretch? Can you have more stretch and more yield at the same time?
Thanks. Cheers.
Andrea Nguyen says
Dear "Mack", "Jenny", and "xxl":
I noticed that you are emailing from the same IP address. I've reached out to "Jenny" via the email address provided and did not receive a response. "xxl" did not provide an email address. "Mack" has offered an email address but I kinda feel that it may be a false one or you may not respond.
There are many kinds of comments posted to this site. Many people share their personal or culinary experiences while others ask questions.
The people who pose questions are looking for practical assistance. They are cooking in their kitchens and sincerely want answers. I do my best to offer guidance.
You -- whether you are 1 person or 3 people -- keep asking the same questions and not trying things out for yourself. Cooking is craft that requires practice.
I can't help you as you don't really want to be helped. This site is not for you.