It’s taken me nearly a week to fully recover from the week spent in New York City. I was there for a packed schedule of conference sessions, meetings, and good food. New York over-stimulates your senses the moment you set foot outside.
Food stylist Karen Shinto and I rented an apartment in the Gramercy Park area, located a couple of blocks away from the Flatiron building. (That's us above, famished enough to eat the Flatiron. Just kidding.) While we did graze at nearby Eataly, the Italian food emporium endorsed by Mario Batali, most of our meals were at Asian restaurants and snack shops. It was fabulously fun, inexpensive and overall very tasty. Here’s a recap:
Rhong Tiam Express – Our apartment was right next to this popular spot on East 21st. Karen and I had flown red eye flights so we somewhat discombobulated on our first day in the city. After settling into the apartment and going to Trader Joe’s for provisions, we needed lunch. Something spicy and jarring to jolt us from jet lag. We scanned the Rhong Tiam menu and ordered so much food that we couldn’t finish most of it.
The outstanding dish was fried yucca. The relatively light, wonderfully crisp pieces were accompanied by a Sriracha-like spicy mayonnaise. The khao soi noodle soup was gentrified with chicken breast but there was enough complex heat to satisfy. I still think about those yucca sticks, wondering how they got the starchy tuber so light...
Banh Mi Saigon – A couple of years ago, this favorite banh mi shop in Chinatown, NYC, relocated to Grand Street. Their lease had run out, the man behind the counter told me. I recognized the name of the joint but wasn’t sure because of the new location. The clue was the jewelry case, which they had at the original spot on Mott.
On our way to find ingredients for my tofu workshop, we got a banh mi dac biet special at 10:30am (7:30am Cali time). We split it and ate, talked and walked through Chinatown. It was an old-school sandwich eaten on the street. Kinda like as if we were in Asia.
Xi An Famous Foods – What a name, huh? This was a pick by Wiley cookbook editor Justin Schwartz. He’s on a gluten-free diet and Xi An Famous Foods has GF options for him. (Xi An is known for its terracotta soldiers too!) Karen and I ordered the wheaty “hand-ripped” (think stretched and cut) noodles with spicy pork, cilantro and celery salad, and savory Chang An soft tofu (a delicate version of Sichuan savory tofu pudding that’s in Asian Tofu, page 59). There was also pocket bread stuffed but greasy and delicious lamb.
Xian Famous Food has several locations but Justin took us to the one at 67 Bayard Street as it’s less crowded. Food comes up from a basement kitchen via dumb waiter. The joint was cramped and rather soulless, reminiscent of spots in Asia. I mean that in a good way. No glitz. Just the food.
Kang Suh – New York-based photographer Yun Hee Kim hosted Karen, fellow stylist Katie Christ and me at this Koreatown establishment for drinks and snacks. It’s a two-story bustling restaurant where the banchan side dishes are prepared with a light hand. We had kimchi, pork belly, and tofu (see my recipe for it at Serious Eats) along with a great seafood pancake and kalbi. Yes, there was beer and soju too.
The address is 1250 Broadway but look for Kang Suh on West 32nd Street at Broadway; it’s on the south side of the street. Afterwards, walk to the Hotel Metro on West 35th, go to the rooftop bar and get a magnificent view of the Empire State Building!
Wong – Located in the West Village, Wong is named after its chef/owner Malaysian-born Simpson Wong. We went there with novelist Monique Truong and her husband for dinner. The food is Chinese and Southeast Asian, with an emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients.
Simpson is playful with his descriptions so you have to ask the wait staff for clarification. “Shrimp Fritters” is his well-done take on Vietnamese banh tom (see Into the Vietnamese Kitchen, page 272) served all in a bowl and ready for you to toss and eat. It’s not a traditional approach but plenty tasty. The Hakka pork belly was a standout, and so was the lobster egg foo yung, which had the buttery savoriness of salted egg yolks. The cocktails and beer selection were terrific.
Gahm Mi Oak – On my last day, I was back in Koreatown for a meeting at Saveur magazine and ran into Robyn and Dave of Eating Asia. Saveur editor-in-chief James Oseland tipped us up off to the bibimbap at Gahm Mi Oak, located at 43 West 32nd, basically across from Kang Suh (above). The Korean restaurant was decorated like a humble rural hut with lots of wood and a small kitchen in the back. The menu is well explained in English and the kimchi was freshly prepared and delectable. The bibimbap didn’t hit you over the head either; it was made with a certain finesse and restraint. Look at the fine cuts made to the ingredients:
The server explained that the milky broth that accompanied the rice needed a bit of salt and scallion to perk up the flavor. The salt turned out to be MSG salt and it did the trick.
After the bibimbap lunch, I took a cab to JFK airport to catch a 5pm flight home. It was a good trip to NYC.
There’s one other Asian spot that we ate at that I’m going post next. A really interesting ramen joint.
(Btw, I went to a handful of non-Asians spots too: Blue Hill Farm and Monkey Bar for wine and cocktails, Seasonal for wonderfully light German fare, and Eataly for panini and wonderful seafood at Il Pesce.)
If you have a recommendation for New York, please share your pick. We're all looking for the next tasty meal.
Related posts:
- Top 10 Vietnamese Restaurants in NYC (per Adam Rose, 2/17/09)
- NY Vietnamese Restaurant Recommendations (per Jennie M, a VWK visitor, 10/09)
- Guide to Little Saigon in New York
Dolt Gabi
Good luck ,Great post,y love you!Thanks for the info it had cleared out too many things in my mind. Your recommendations are really good.
http://www.howmanycaloriesinapoundoffat.org
Hungry Lemur
I also just got back from a hectic week in New York - with similar Asian eating priorities by the sound of it. 🙂 I highly recommend Zabb Elee on Second Ave for Isaan food - when they offered me fermented crab in my somtam I knew I was in for something really good! I wish I had seen your post in time to try Xian Famous Food...next time, always next time...
Andrea Nguyen
You got Isaan food in NYC? Wow. Zabb Elee is a tough name to figure out. What was your tip off?
Madeline
I've been wanting to try Purple Yam in Brooklyn, but it's out of my way and I haven't made the effort yet. http://www.purpleyamnyc.com/
And after going through the Asian Tofu book and also seeing a post on Queens Love - I'm curious to try the yose tofu at Linn Restaurant
http://queenslove.tumblr.com/post/19725323963/linn-restaurant-serves-up-some-delicious-japanese
And Brighton Beach in Brooklyn has some interesting Korean-Uzbek restaurant as well as a lot of Russian restaurants. http://www.yelp.com/biz/elza-fancy-food-brooklyn-2
Diana @ Appetite for China
The next time you come back to NY and eat at Xian Famous Foods, get the "cold skin noodles"! Definitely my favorite thing on the menu. http://xianfoods.com/menu.php
Andrea Nguyen
Dang, Madeline. I'm asking you for eating tips next time I'm in town. Thanks for the posts. Korean-Uzbek? I like it!
Andrea Nguyen
Will do on the cold skin noodles. Would have never thought of that as sounding good. Chinese food names -- aiya!
Diane
Dang - just left today! Now I'm Long Island the rest of the week (sigh). Land of food courts.
Eve
Diane, I think food courts are extra-depressing in America and Europe if you've just come back from a big Asian city and seen how amazing food courts CAN be.
Andrea Nguyen
OMG food courts abroad are marvels for the mouth. Even airport food courts...
Andrea Nguyen
Maybe head to a strip mall? You never know what you can find tucked into a crappy looking strip mall.
Quyen
Now I am craving Banh Mi!
Looking forward to the ramen post! I was wondering when I got to the bottom and no ramen had yet been mentioned...Is it Ippudo by any chance? Sooooooo good. I wish I lived in NYC some days.
saffron59/Irene Wong
Welcome to NY! You choose some really great spots to dine. I have linked you to our blog: http://culinary43.blogspot.com/, if you can link us back that would be great! You can check us out at http://www.Saffron59.com or on my blog. Hope to hear from you soon! -Saffron59 Team
James
I couple of notes on Thai food in NYC. I was in the Bangkok Center Grocery on Mosco Street in Chinatown on Monday morning. I was the only one there and I wound up having a pretty long conversation with the man behind the counter. We talked about Thai Restaurants. My favorite for a while has been Ayada in Elmhurst. He said he thought Ayada was very good but his favorite was Arharn Thai in Astoria because he thought it as the only one that seasoned the dishes close to how they would be made in Thailand. He said most Thai restaurants in NYC wind up making the dishes much too sweet. I haven't been to Aharn yet but I'm certainly going to go now. Has anyone been there?
There was a sign in the window of the market that said "fresh curry paste" so I was thinking that maybe they made their own like the markets in Thailand. Well that wasn't quite the case. What the sign in the window was referring to is the Nattaya Brand of curry pastes from Thailand. They get a shipment of those flown in every couple of months. I think it's the only market in New York (certainly Manhattan) that carries them. They're a little pricier. I think it was $2.75 for a 50 gram packet. The guy said that it's just much, much better and fresher than the standard Maesri or Mae Ploy. He was right. I made a Penang curry with the Nattaya paste last night and it was really fantastic. They had all the basic types, green, red, massaman, etc. and they keep them in the refrigerator case.
This market has a lot of thai brands and products that aren't seen in other Asian markets. It's also the only place I've seen in Chinatown that has the Clay Mortar with Wooden Pestle for making Thai salads
julie
yum! love xian famous foods. am bookmarking this for future nyc visits. 🙂
Max Criden
Hey James--I have been to Arharn Thai a couple of times a few years ago and still remember it fondly as one of the very best Thai restaurants I have ever been to. I would highly recommend it!