“When someone doesn’t
like tofu or they feel like that it’s gross, I immediately assume that they’re some hardcore neo-conservative,” says David Chang, the chef and owner of the Momofuku
restaurant group. Chang makes that provocative statement partway through the soy episode of The Mind of a Chef, a new PBS food and
travel series produced and narrated by Anthony Bourdain.
Unlike many of the
modern cooking shows, this one is punctuated by jokes (Chang says fart twice in this episode), profanity, and traditional
as well as innovative cooking techniques. There is no loud screaming or overly staged dramatic situations.
It’s as if you’re hanging out with Chang. The shows are smart.
I was planning to post a Burmese tofu recipe when I read a
tweet from Xena N (@bowlfulofcomfor)
about the segment. I stopped what I was doing and watched. In 23 minutes, the soy episode of The Mind of a Chef touches on a whole
host of issues related to food, culture, and society.
At the core, Bourdain and Chang say to viewers: Don’t think
of tofu and miso simply as what vegetarians order instead of a steak. They are more
than that. Here’s the full episode, available until December 22, 2012 on PBS.org:
See more from The Mind of a Chef.
Chang and Bourdain concisely described what tofu is, a community-oriented food craft that is beautiful and delicious in its simplicity. What Chang experienced is just like what I experienced in Tokyo
and elsewhere.
If you’ve made your own tofu, you’ll recognized some of the
moves. By the way, the tall, computer-CPUlike metal tofu mold is Tokyo style,
according to Mr. Ishijima of Takeya Tofu, one of the tofumakers that I interviewed for Asian Tofu. In Kyoto, the mold is low
and wide, like a giant perforated cake pan. He wasn't sure why.
I love when Chang does a throwdown between fresh mozzarella and tofu. There's no winner declared but the similarities are clear. Freshness is key. My major quibble is with
Chang’s tofu-making technique, which is pretty casual and meant to educate on the surface level. There's lots to making mozzarella that isn't shown on screen in the episode.
If and when the episode becomes unavailable, watch this short version, which covers Chang’s visit to a mom-and-pop tofu shop in Tokyo:
See more from The Mind of a Chef.
On to miso. “American miso is crap,” is Chang’s lead. He
tries to apologize for his statement but not. There’s some truth to that and he shows you how to work around the miso
that you have. (Use butter.) Chang's pastry chef and author of Momofuku Milk Bar,
Christina Tosi, then demonstrates how to take low-brow shiro miso and turn into a
sauce for an homage to fried apple pie. How she manipulates the miso is something you can do at home with a Silpat nonstick baking mat and blender.
Given all of Chang’s bravado and confidence about knowing
miso, when he visits with famed Noma chef Rene Redzepi, Chang is
unsure of himself. Redzepi makes a miso-like miso out of nuts and Chang has to put a dish together.
Curiosity, doubt, and discovery are the overaching themes of The Mind
of Chef. In the closing, Bourdain suggests that people open their minds up to tofu and miso and give them a try. I’d add this: You may already
know tofu and miso, but they are endlessly fascinating and versatile foods.
What are your thoughts on the soy episode or The Mind of a
Chef?
Related information:
- The Mind of a Chef
(main page for listing of all episodes and shorts) - Discover
China: A Tale of Tofu (a terrific documentary, not to mention a cheap thrill for tofu nerds)
Lori says
Thanks for letting us know about this show, Andrea. I am not sure how much David Chang informs us about tofu but he is entertaining. I found your book more informative and several of your recipes are now part of my repertoire. :O)
M.K. says
I love how Dave Chang tries to change people's perceptions about certain Asian foods, and it works because he is incredibly knowledgable and genuinely interested in all aspects of different cuisines. I feel like tofu is unpopular in the same way that many people don't eat meat--they don't know its origins, how it's made or where it's processed, or maybe they don't know how to cook with it; which is exactly why your book and episodes like this are so important in passing on food culture. Thanks for posting!
Andrea Nguyen says
Thanks Lori! I'm sure I've said this before but it's great to have you on the tofu train.
Andrea Nguyen says
Definitely, Chang advocates for particular Asian foods. Every issue of Lucky Peach contains interesting information on what chefs are doing with regard to Asian ingredients and techniques.
Chang and Bourdain make strong statements in the framework of edutainment. I'm all for that.
Maggie says
The premise of the show is interesting. I watched the episode where Chang makes yakitori with smoked chicken wings confited in pork fat, and was bemused that he would deign to use such a humble, 'peasant' technique, being the Michelin-starred chef, and in the light of his recent comments!
Nate @ House of Annie says
More chefs need to take the risk of pushing the envelope with tofu, and Asian food in general. Because generally, Asian food as it is known in America is crap.
Andrea Nguyen says
You betcha, Nate! Having lived in the States and being in Malaysia, oye, the difference is glaring. Things are changing in the US but not as fast as some of us would like, eh?
Andrea Nguyen says
You make a good point, Maggie. One of Chang's deals is that he basically takes a 'humble' food and elevates it, often times presenting his polished rendition to people who've never or seldom had it before. He draws them in that way and then, he's kind of 'in your face' about the dish. There's a certain edge about his work. He's a savvy restaurateur and chef.