Kien Giang Fish and Shrimp Noodle Soup Recipe (bun ca Kien Giang)

Because I left Vietnam at a young age, I’m always chasing knowledge about the motherland. It keeps me busy because with regard to Vietnamese cooking, there is always something new to learn. Vietnam is a country with nearly 60 ethnic groups, 58 provinces and 5 cities (municipalities) so that’s a lot to absorb.

Last year, as part of an artisanal fish sauce story, I got to meet Albee Tran, the fourth generation fish sauce maker in the family responsible for Son Fish Sauce. Son is a bit hard to find, but it’s slowly being more well distributed. It’s delicious and pure. You’ll need to shop online or at a Viet market for it. More information from the Son Fish Sauce website on sourcing.

Soup Inspiration

Albee is thin as a rail but mighty and super knowledgeable about the region of her birth—Kien Giang, which is located in southern Vietnam where some of the country’s best fish sauce is produced. When I asked her for a recipe to illustrate the food of her region, she immediately said “Bún cá Kiên Giang!” I’d never heard of the noodle soup so she sent me handwritten notes. I went multiple rounds to develop this recipe. The Los Angeles Times tested and adapted the recipe for my article on Albee and her husband Danny, co-owners of Son Fish Sauce.

I’m sharing my original recipe with you because it’s remarkably good, and a head turner too.

Additionally, I’ve been thinking about this Kien Giang noodle soup lately because I’d had rough plans to visit Vietnam sooner than later. Since overseas travel isn’t in the cards for most of us these days, we can at least cook up something from afar and conjure up the savors of distant shores. Some notes for you are below to send you on your slurpy way!

A Porky Broth Beginning

Any recipe with a place name attached signals a specialty loaded with provenance. Traditional cooks make this Kien Giang fish and shrimp rice noodle soup with a whole snakehead fish but many modern cooks prepare it with a rich pork bone stock. It’s hard to get a whole fresh snakehead these days!

Where to buy pork knuckle bones? Head to an Asian or Mexican market and check in or by the butcher case.

After brewing the pork broth, you poach freshwater fish fillet in the broth to inject piscine essence.

Quirky Smacked Shrimp, pickles and cucumber

I gained several interesting Viet cooking tips while developing this recipe. The smacked shrimp with egg surprised me. What was its purpose? To mimic fatty fish roe! Totally clever. It’s a delicious topping that I could see on a bowl of rice.  

A mixture of Asian pickled leeks (which are more like shallots or ramps), chile and fish sauce is key to this noodle soup. It adds a tangy-funky boost. Albee told me to not go light on that DIY garnish. When shopping for it at an Asian market, look for the Fortune brand. The small can is not a major commitment.

I was skeptical about the cucumber, but it wilts ever so gently in the hot broth and adds a mellow vegetal note. The cucumber is cooling and softly crunchy in this Kien Giang fish and shrimp noodle soup. Bean sprouts, cucumber, and lots of Vietnamese coriander (rau ram) refresh.

Since you’ll want the pickled leeks (they keep for years in a jar), you’ll be heading to a Vietnamese or Chinese market; Korean H Mart may have it, though I’m not sure. At the market, pick up your pork bones and dried rice noodles (bún). At a regular supermarket, those noodles are labeled maifun.

Yes, noodle soups like bún cá Kiên Giang take time, but they’re worth the effort to make at home. You’ll have a handsome, delicious sampling from southern Vietnam that you can enjoy for lunch or dinner. Add a lager-style beer on the rocks and you’ll be transported.

Related post

Shrimp Buying Guide and Prep Tips (if you need a shopping assist!)

Print Recipe

5 from 1 vote

Kien Giang Fish and Shrimp Rice Noodle Soup

In Vietnamese, this is called bún cá Kiên Giang. See the main blog post for many pointers. If rau ram isn’t available, use ½ cup coarsely chopped cilantro. This recipe was inspired by Albee Tran of Son Fish Sauce. See Notes below for tips on making the broth in a pressure cooker.

Course: Main Course

Cuisine: Southeast Asian

Keyword: noodle soup, seafood noodle soup, Vietnamese noodle soup

Servings: 4

Ingredients

Broth and shrimp

• 2 ½ pounds pork neck or leg bones (usually cut in 3-inch pieces at Asian markets)
• 2 ½ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more as needed
• ½ ounce Chinese yellow rock sugar, or 1 small (3-4 ounce) Fuji apple, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped
• 1 medium (8-ounce) yellow onion, quartered
• 6 ounces shell-on large shrimp (12 total)
• 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk
• ¼ cup fish sauce, divided
• 2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil
• Rounded ¼ teaspoon paprika or ground annatto
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
• ½ cup finely chopped Asian pickled leeks, such as Fortuna brand
• 1 tablespoon Asian pickled leek brine
• 2 or 3 Thai or small serrano chiles, chopped with seeds intact

Noodles, fish and add-ons

• 8 ounces dried round rice noodles (aka bun, maifun or rice sticks)
• 1 pound catfish or tilapia fillets, halved lengthwise and cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces
• 3 cups 5 to 6 ounces mung bean bean sprouts
• 1 large Persian cucumber, quartered lengthwise, seeded and thinly cut on the bias into long pieces
• ⅔ cup Vietnamese coriander (rau ram) leaves, cut or torn in half if large
• ⅓ cup sliced green onion, green parts only
• ¼ cup fried shallot or onion
• Optional garnishes: 4 lime wedges, 4 mint sprigs, 4 Vietnamese coriander sprigs

Instructions

• To ensure clear broth, parboil the bones (flavor won’t be lost). Put them in a 6 to 8-quart pot with enough water to just cover. Bring to a boil over high heat, let boil for 1 to 2 minutes to release scum, then dump the bones into a clean sink (or set a strainer in the sink). Rinse the scum off the bones. Scrub the pot then replace the bones. Add 12 cups water then bring to a boil over high heat; skim bits of scum that appear, then add the salt, rock sugar (or apple), and onion. Adjust the heat to simmer, uncovered, for 1 ½ hours.
• While the broth cooks, peel and devein the shrimp, adding their shells to the simmering broth. Use a meat mallet to gently tap 3 or 4 times to crush each shrimp; the egg will cling better and create a faux fish egg effect. Season the shrimp with a pinch of each of salt. Beat the egg and yolk with 1 ½ teaspoons of fish sauce. Set aside.
• Combine the paprika (or annatto) and oil in a small (8-inch) nonstick skillet. Set over medium-low heat. After the oil turns deep orange, 3 to 4 minutes, add the garlic. Let sizzle for about 45 seconds, stirring, then add the shrimp. Stir and cook for 2 minutes, until just cooked through. Pour in the egg, then stir to combine and coat. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until set and cooked. Transfer and scrape all the richness onto a plate, partially cover to cool, and set aside.
• In a small bowl, combine the pickled leek, pickle brine, chile, and 2 tablespoons fish sauce. Set aside.
• Cook the noodles in a pot of water until tender firm (use your judgement, not the package instructions, which often mislead), drain, flush with water and set aside to drain and cool.
• When the broth is done, let it rest for 15 minutes, uncovered, to settle impurities and further concentrate. Strain it through a mesh strainer lined with muslin or paper towel, set over a medium (3-quart) pot. Season with about 1 ½ tablespoons fish sauce for a pleasant savory finish. You should net about 8 cups.
• Over medium high heat, bring the broth to a simmer, slightly lower the heat to steady the heat and add the fish pieces. Let poach for 2 to 4 minutes (tilapia takes less time).
• Meanwhile, put a handful of beans sprouts in each bowl. Top with the noodles, spreading it out to make a flat surface. Divide the shrimp among the bowls. When the fish is done, use a spider or slotted spoon to retrieve and divide the fish among the bowls. Tuck a pile of cucumber to one side of each bowl. Add some Vietnamese coriander to another corner. Add 1 tablespoon of the pickled leek and fish sauce mixture. Top with the green onion.
• Return the broth to a boil, divide the broth among the bowls. Crown with fried shallot. Serve with extra pickled leek and fish sauce for adding more oomph to bowls. Present any remaining bean sprouts and cucumber along with the optional garnishes for diners to add at the table.

Notes

To make the broth in a pressure cooker, put the bones, salt, rock sure (or apple) and onion in a 6 quart pressure cooker or multicooker like the Instant Pot. Add 8 cups water, then cook on high pressure for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and naturally depressurize for 20 minutes, then release pressure to strain and season the broth as usual. 

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