To make the filling, in a bowl, use a fork to vigorously stir together the cream cheese, crab fat, fish sauce, black pepper, and garlic. Add the crab meat, cilantro, and green onion, then stir to combine well. Taste and add salt, as needed. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 30 minutes before using, or refrigerate up to 2 days in advance. Makes about 1 cup.

Fill each wonton skin with about 1 teaspoon of the filling, creating triangles, flower buds, or nurse’s caps. As you work, put the finished wontons on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet that’s been lightly dusted with cornstarch. When done, loosely cover with a dishtowel to prevent drying. The wontons can also be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for several hours; let them sit at room temperature to remove the chill before frying.

Put a wire rack on a baking sheet and place next to the stove. Pour oil to a depth of ¾ inch into a wok, deep skillet, or 5-quart Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat to about 325F on a deep-fry thermometer.

Working in batches of 4 to 6, slide the wontons into the hot oil and fry for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Use a skimmer to transfer to the rack to drain. Arrange the wontons on a platter and serve hot as finger food along with the sauce for dipping.